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A Guide to Simulated Pearls

January 17, 2011 by

Overview

Simulated pearls have existed for over a thousand years. In fact, evidence suggests that people have been trying to produce imitation pearls since approximately 83 A.D. That’s when Chinese Philosopher Wang Chhung (or Wang Ch’ung) recorded his thoughts on how heating, proper timing, and the right mix of chemicals could be combined to form pearls that were quite close to the real thing. At the time, natural pearls were so rare and valuable that they were exorbitantly expensive. In fact, pearls were worth more than gold in many parts of the world, so it’s only natural that people would want to imitate the beauty of genuine pearls.

Experiments continued throughout the years with few mentions of imitation pearls. The Venetians discovered a method by which they could create beautiful iridescent glass in the 16th century, but the industry did not take off until finally a man named Jacquin discovered that the shimmer of fish scales could be used to create a substance known as “pearlessence” or “essence d’orient.” He was able to create simulated pearls by coating glass beads with essence d’orient and then filling them with wax. Unfortunately, getting the materials for pearlessence required harvesting scales from thousands of fish. These days, many faux pearls use other methods. For example, some manufacturers use plastic beads instead of glass. Also, while some companies still use pearlessence, others cover their beads in pearl film.

There’s nothing wrong with simulated pearls; in fact, well-made versions can be quite pretty. It can be helpful to know the different types on the market so that you know whether your pearls are real or not, however.

Types

If you are shopping for simulated pearls, you should look for strands that are labeled fake, faux, simulated, artificial, imitation, or man-made. Manufacturers and retailers are supposed to disclose this information, but unfortunately this doesn’t always happen. There are specific brands/types that are always artificial, including:

  • Red Sea
  • Laguna
  • Mallorca/Majorica/Majorca
  • LaTausca
  • Shell (a specific type of artificial pearl)
  • Pearlfection (more about them below)
  • Mayoka (this might be the same as Majorca)
  • Misaki
  • Swarovski (these are made of glass beads and are generally high quality in comparison to others)

Pearlfection has, in the past, been promoted in such a way that consumers might be confused. I’m not sure if this is on the company’s shoulders, or on the retailers/programs that promote them (QVC, etc). However, some of the claims I’ve heard are that these pearls are as much as 98% real, they are not imitation, their black pearls are from the Pinctada Margaritefera oyster (that produces black Tahitian pearls), a jeweler would not be able to tell whether their strand was real or not, and black is a natural color in Akoya pearls. Now, please be aware that none of these claims are true! Pearlfections pearls are indeed simulated.

Tests

What if you aren’t sure of the authenticity of your strand of pearls? Do you know how to tell the difference between real and fake pearls? Here are six common tests:

  • The tooth test. This one is something that many people in the industry swear by. To perform this test, run a pearl over your teeth (lightly!). Natural pearls should have a gritty feel, whereas simulated pearls should feel relatively smooth. The problem with this test is that cultured pearls tend to feel nearly as smooth as their man-made cousins. Basically, if your pearl(s) feel gritty, you’ve most likely got naturals; if they feel smooth, move on to another test.
  • Magnification. Under close inspection, real pearls should have ridges, grooves, or other surface imperfections. Simulated pearls are designed to be perfectly smooth. You should also inspect the drill holes carefully. The drill hole of a fake pearl will probably be ragged and uneven; you might even see some dye peeling around the edges.
  • Sunlight. Take your pearls out and look at them in the sun. Real pearls have more depth (due to the nacre) and color variation. Simulated pearls tend to have very little shine when compared to the real thing. They also lack that “inner glow” that pearls with very high luster possess. If you have a pearl necklace, take a look at several pearls in the same strand. Do they match exactly? If the colors are exactly the same, with little to no variation, chances are that your pearls are man-made.
  • Density. This one can be a bit tricky. In general, real pearls will feel heavier than simulated ones. High-quality artificial pearls may feel just like real pearls, unfortunately.
  • X-ray. If you’re willing to pay an expert to x-ray your pearls, this is the best test of all. An x-ray can tell you several things: whether your pearls are real, whether they are natural or cultured, and whether they have been dyed. This can be a bit expensive but is well worth the cost if you have any doubt.
  • Destructive tests. This category includes tests that most people wouldn’t care to perform. For example, you could try cutting your pearls open to see what the core looks like. Alternatively, you could try heat, water, or one of several other tests that involve destroying your pearls. If you want to try one of these in the name of science, go for it – but don’t try these if you want to wear your pearls ever again.

Care

Simulated pearls are more durable than natural ones in some ways, and less so in others. On the whole, caring for simulated pearls is relatively easy. Like real pearls, make sure that you avoid acids or body oils. Although these babies can handle a bit of heat, cooking with them might not be the best idea. Unlike the real thing, man-made pearls can handle some light cleansers, so be sure to clean them every so often with a soft cloth. One thing that you should watch out for – the outer layers of dye or coating may occasionally peel or scratch off. Low-quality strands may be especially susceptible to this type of damage. To keep your necklace (or other type of jewelry) looking great, store in a bag or jewelry box away from things that might scratch.

Simulated, man-made, artificial – they all mean the same thing. Although these pearls are not real, sometimes they can be well worth the purchase. Just make sure that you know what you’re getting before you buy!

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Caring for Simulated Pearls

March 8, 2010 by

A while back I explained how to care for pearls, which is important because they are fairly delicate gems. But what about simulated pearls? You would think that fake pearls would be much easier to store and clean but in fact many of the same rules apply, especially to Swarovski simulated pearls because they are very high quality and in many ways similar to the real thing.

Just like a regular pearl necklace, fake (or faux, or simulated) pearls should be put on last. Get dressed, put on makeup, perfume, etc. and then put on your simulated pearls. This is to avoid damaging the surface with acids/oils from your body or perfume. They should also be the first thing you remove. Just like natural pearls – “last on, first off” is the rule to remember.

It’s not as important to keep your simulated pearls away from heat or sunlight as it is with genuine pearls but I still wouldn’t cook with them or keep them on any longer than you really need to. That way they will look beautiful for quite some time.

When it comes to cleaning, again, you should be very careful with your artificial pearls. Unlike real pearls, they can handle a very small amount of (very) gentle detergent. However, it really is best to just buff them with a soft dry cloth as often as you can and save the cleaners for when they get extremely dirty.

Don’t store your necklace hanging up if at all possible, for the same reasons you want to avoid doing so with real pearls. You don’t want to damage the thread and have to restring or replace the necklace any sooner than you have to, right? Other than that, if you store your pearls in a jewelry box try to keep them separate or, ideally, store them in a soft cloth bag. As I mentioned earlier, Swarovski simulated pearls are quite high quality but some other faux necklaces may not be as durable and you want to keep them from getting scratched.

That’s really all you need to know here. Just follow the “last on, first off” rule to keep the finish of your necklace from getting damaged; try to avoid extreme heat though a little is okay; clean gently with a soft cloth or gentle cleaner; and, finally, store your artificial pearls by themselves in a jewelry box or in a soft bag to protect them. Sounds complicated but it’s really easy!

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How to Spot a Fake Pearl Necklace

January 19, 2010 by

Have you ever been fooled into thinking that a fake pearl necklace is the real thing? Knowing how to spot a fake can be helpful for many reasons – it will help you avoid making mistakes when buying your necklace, and may even help you identify one you already have! Generally fake pearl necklaces may be called fake, faux, simulated, glass, plastic, resin, synthetic, artificial, or manmade if you are ordering online, but what if someone gives you a pearl necklace and you have no idea how to tell the difference? Here are some ways you can figure out if your necklace is real or not. (Keep in mind, cultured pearls are real! They are just artificially ‘induced’ pearls.)

1) X-rays. This is the most reliable test of all! An x-ray will tell you everything you need to know, including the actual thickness of the nacre, whether the pearl is cultured or not, and, of course, whether it’s real or fake. However, you will have to pay an expert to do this for you, and that can be expensive.

2) Destructive tests involve cutting the pearl open so that the core is visible. Natural pearls will be all nacre, freshwater cultured pearls will be nearly all nacre, and saltwater cultured pearls will have a shell core with a thinner layer of nacre. Faux pearls, on the other hand, will have a glass core with many layers of coating. I don’t recommend this at all! Why destroy your pearls?

3) Exposing your pearls to sunlight or a very bright indoor light will let you see all the color variations. Real pearls have so many color variations available that a perfect match is very rare, and in the sunlight, even more so. If both the body color and the overtones are perfectly matched, you may be looking at either a fake or an extremely costly real pearl necklace.

4) The tooth test involves running a pearl lightly over your teeth. Real pearls should apparently feel gritty whereas fake pearls will feel much smoother. This will fail to separate cultured pearls from fake ones, however – cultured pearls have a much thinner layer of nacre so they will feel relatively smooth. In general, I don’t know how reliable this test is – some experts seem to swear by it but I have no experience with it myself. Use at your own risk.

5) Magnification will show any imperfections or ridges that may exist. Real pearls will have years’ worth of nacre build up, creating some ridges that may not be apparent to the naked eye. Fake pearls will be mostly smooth.

6) Density. Real pearls should feel heavier relative to their size than faux pearls. In general – if you pick up your pearl necklace and it feels light, it’s fake. If it’s heavy, things get more complicated since well made faux pearl necklaces are nearly the same density as their natural counterparts..

Hopefully you now have a good idea of what the differences are between real and fake pearls. I should mention that Swarovski simulated pearls are very very close to real pearls – it will be hard to tell the difference in many of these categories. In that case, an x-ray will be your best bet. Good luck and I hope this helps you avoid buying a fake pearl necklace!

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