Posts Tagged ‘ pearl ’

If you’ve ever wanted a pearl necklace but didn’t care for the look of classic round pearls, you might want to take a look at baroque pearls instead. ‘Baroque’ in this case simply means that the shape is irregular and asymmetrical. I’ve talked about other shapes before, including coin, keshi, and drop pearls but did you know that those could also be considered baroque? It all depends on how symmetrical they are! Even stick pearls (such as those made famous by Lake Biwa pearl farms) might fall under the baroque category.

Baroque pearls have all the same qualities as their more sought after cousins, and can be very high quality aside from their shape. This means you could get the high luster, good surface quality, and lovely orient (especially in keshis) that you’re looking for, but because these pearls are less desirable, you might end up paying a good deal less for them. They let you inject a little more flair into your jewelry choices and lend themselves well to many types of designs.

Most baroque pearls are freshwater cultured pearls – these, unlike saltwater pearls, are cultivated with a piece of mantle tissue as a nucleus instead of a bead. This cultivation process is less likely to produce perfectly round pearls, but fortunately for you (if you like pearls with a little more character) baroque pearls are easy to come by. Saltwater baroque pearls exist too, but they’re not quite as common. Keshi pearls are a byproduct of the cultivation process and are often either discarded or corrected before the pearl has fully formed. That being said, other types of baroque pearls are available in the Akoya, South Sea, or Tahitian varieties. I’ve heard that as much as forty percent of the Tahitian pearl harvest is baroque!

Drop pearls, which can also be considered baroque, are often used in earrings and single pearl necklaces. Coin pearl necklaces are quite popular with young women because they add a more feminine touch. Finally, keshi pearls can be used as accents or combined to make roses or even more fanciful shapes. Keshis also tend to have absolutely incredible orient so I’m definitely a fan!

Overall, irregularly shaped baroque pearls have a lot of character and their variety means you’ll be sure to find something you like. Not to mention, you could save some money! Thinking outside of the box can have its rewards now and then.

If you don’t know much about pearls, buying your first pearl necklace can be a confusing process. Guys, there’s a lot of hype and false advertising out there so you have to be careful! The best way to approach this is to first of all, have a clear idea of what you want as well as a working knowledge of pearls so that your vision will become a reality. With that in mind, I’ll walk you through what you need to know to buy the right necklace for you or your loved one, from deciding what style you like to choosing the right retailer. Let’s get started.

Pick A Necklace Style

The first thing you need to think about is who the necklace is for. I know this may seem pretty obvious but who the recipient is will determine what styles or colors you should go for. You already know her (or him – guys can wear pearls too – but for now I’m just going to say her to make it easier) so take a moment to think about her preferences. Of course, if you’re buying for yourself then you already know!

The next step is to eliminate some of your options to make things simpler while keeping yourself or your loved one in mind. Think about age, first of all. There are some types of necklaces that may not be age-appropriate for younger girls or young women. These include pearl ropes, opera length necklaces, and really, anything with very large pearls (See: Pearl Necklace Lengths for more on pearl necklace naming conventions). Now, not everyone feels this way so don’t talk yourself out of one of these if that’s what you think she’ll like – but definitely keep in mind that, typically, those are all necklaces worn by older women. Other than that – is her style classic, or cutting edge? Some women may find the classic pearl strands a little boring and/or too traditional.

If you’ve eliminated some options, then now is the time to pick a specific style (or styles) that you want to focus on. I’ll present some of the less common options as well so that you can decide! Classic pearl strands are the easiest to find in many different colors and will be wearable in nearly any situation. Single pearl necklaces resemble a pendant and are  usually just a single pearl on a chain. These are modern and a great choice for young women or women with a more delicate bone structure because they won’t be overwhelmed. This type of necklace can also be much more affordable.

Floating pearl necklaces (also known as a tin cup, station, or illusion necklaces) consist of pearls spaced evenly along a very fine chain or silk thread, giving the illusion that they are “floating” on your skin. They were first seen in the movie “Tin Cup” (hence the name tin cup necklace) but have endured as a long-lasting fashion trend. I think these are the most delicate and feminine necklaces of all! They are very easy to find in a variety of colors but many “floating pearl necklaces” actually use faux pearls. Just read the description carefully before you buy!

Pick Your Pearls

Hopefully you know have a fairly clear idea what you’re looking for. Next you need to choose the type and color of pearls you’d like. The main types of pearls are Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea, and freshwater, each with a different price and color range. Here’s a crash course:

Akoyas are a very solid choice if you’re looking for a classic white pearl necklace. They are high quality and generally available in white or cream.

Tahitian pearls are as opposite as you can get – if you want black pearls, Tahitian is definitely the way to go. Look for high orient and a metallic sheen – these pearls are rarely a flat black and are known for their many vibrant colors.

South Sea pearls are generally gold or silver – colors that are rare in other types – and are larger than average.

Freshwater pearls are probably the most widely available now that Chinese pearl culturing techniques have advanced. Some advantages of freshwater pearls are their affordablility, durability (due to high nacre content) and color choice. Freshwaters take dye/radiation very easily so you’ll be able to find any color you like.

Scams, Myths, and What to Look For In Your Pearls

Now if you’re ready to buy, here’s what you need to look for. There is no universal pearl grading system but most retailers, whether online or brick and mortar, use a scale running from A to AAA+, with AAA+ being the highest quality. The more rarely used Tahitian scale runs from A-D with A being the best. Any retailer that claims to have AAAA pearls is generally trying to inflate their prices. Take a very very careful look at the description so you know what you’re getting.

Any legitimate retailer should include a description that mentions the luster (shine/reflective qualities of the pearl or pearls), overall quality (whether by letter grade or surface quality i.e. 96% blemish free),  size, shape (and whether or not there are any irregularities), and certifications if those apply. Hanadamas should always include a certificate from the Japanese Pearl Institute. If you are ever unsure about a pearl, many retailers will let you see additional photos  – anyway, it never hurts to ask! Of course, if you are in a brick and mortar store you’ll be able to see the pearl necklace for yourself.

As with any major purchase, knowing the basics will sometimes save you from making a mistake. There are many misleading claims out there and any of these should be a definite red flag. Here we go with some of the top myths:

• Baby South Sea pearls are generally not South Sea at all, but freshwater pearls.
• South Sea Tahitians don’t exist. Pearls are either Tahitian or South Sea.
• Black South Sea pearls are actually Tahitians, generally.
• AAAA grading – this should be a warning to look closer.
• Black Freshwater pearls are always dyed.
• Brown Tahitian pearls are almost always dyed.
• There is nothing better than Hanadama. Anyone who says they have an Akoya pearl superior to Hanadama doesn’t know their stuff – if it were really that good it would have gone through the certification process.
• Japanese Akoya pearls – the name is somewhat of a misnomer these days. Though once it was an industry standard term, the advent of Chinese Akoya pearls as well as the Japanese practice of importing and relabeling their competition, has made this somewhat obsolete.

As you can see…buyer beware! There are, however, many reputable dealers both online and off. The following sites have received good reviews and are generally considered a safe place to buy:

Pearls of Joy
Pearl Paradise
The Pearl Outlet

After you purchase your necklace be sure to take care of it so that it lasts a lifetime. Though pearls are more delicate than other gems, with a little careful handling they can last a very long time. Be sure to keep them away from open heat, direct sun, and body acids, store them away from other jewelry so they don’t get scratched, and avoid using harsh cleaners on them or while wearing them. Your new pearls will eventually need to be restrung however.  (For more information please see: Caring for Your Pearl Necklace)

If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! Hopefully this crash course in pearl buying has made your search a little easier. Just remember to carefully think of what you would like to buy; choose the right pearls; read descriptions carefully; look for red flags; and take care of your necklace once you (or your loved one for that matter) receives it. Good luck and happy hunting!

Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with the above merchants in any way – they are merely sites I have seen mentioned around the web with a good reputation. Please exercise caution even with the most reputable of dealers and buy at your own risk!

Drop pearls are another unique type of pearl categorized by their shape (much like coin and rice pearls). Rather than being completely round or spherical, these may be either pear or teardrop shaped, depending in part on their origin. The ‘drop’ part of the pearl may be long or it may be on the shorter side but these pearls are always symmetrical, which is a huge part of their appeal. I personally like the ones that look like raindrops.

So what types of drop pearls are available? Truth be told, most of the drop pearls on the market today are freshwater. This isn’t a bad thing – freshwater pearls come in many colors, and can be easily dyed to produce rare (brown for example) or nearly impossible colors – think deep purple or cranberry red. Not only that, but freshwater pearls are widely available and of comparable quality to their saltwater counterparts.

You can also find both Tahitian and South Sea drop pearls, with Tahitian being slightly easier to find (and possibly less expensive too!). Most of the Tahitian drop pearls I’ve seen online are in peacock – however, Tahitians come in so many different colors that with a little searching you may be able to find others.

I’ve heard of baroque Akoyas that are close to drop pearls, but was unable to find any when I looked. Generally speaking, the quality control on Akoya pearls is strict enough that there may be very few drop pearls on the market.

Drop pearls are most often found in earrings or pendants (try looking for a single pearl necklace if nothing turns up when you search for pendants). Traditional pearl strands made entirely of drop pearls are harder to find but they do exist and seem to mostly consist of Tahitians. You might also try looking for a floating pearl or tin cup necklace made entirely of drop pearls for a very unique look. No matter what you choose, these pearls really bring attention to your face and will help you stand out from the crowd.

While it may be easier to find round pearls due to their popularity and value, shopping online makes things much easier. The downside is that some online retailers make false claims so it can be hard to know who you can trust. Here are some reputable companies that carry drop pearls:

• Pearl Paradise
• Pure Pearls
• The Pearl Outlet
• Pearls of Joy

Good luck finding the right pearls for you!

(I’m not affiliated with the above retailers but I have seen them discussed around the web. Generally all four sites have a very good reputation but as always, exercise caution!)

South Sea pearls are a great addition to anyone’s collection. Their warm colors, large size, and thick nacre make them both unique and durable. If you want a gold pearl, South Sea is the way to go! Here’s a little more information about these spectacular pearls.

South Sea pearls are harvested from the pinctada maxima oyster, found throughout the Indian and Pacific Oceans, and are known for their warm overtones and colors that rarely occur in other pearl types. These pearls are mainly produced in Australia, the Phillippines, Indonesia, and Myanmar.

These pearls are among the largest cultured pearls in the world, for reasons that I’ll explain in a minute. You may recall that an average pearl is about 7-8mm with some types, such as Akoya, running a little smaller. South Sea pearls, on the other hand, are somewhere between 9mm-20mm! The smallest South Sea pearl is larger than the average Akoya and the average (at 13mm) is nearly twice as large.

One reason for their incredible size is the size of the oyster itself. Pinctada maxima oysters can grow up to 12 inches in diameter so they can handle a larger nucleus. These pearls are also left to grow for a relatively long time – a minimum of 2 years before being harvested. Finally, the warm and clean waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans are conducive to quick nacre growth so they are able to grow larger, more quickly. This is also a reason for their unusually average nacre thickness of 2-6mm. (For reference, the nacre in Akoyas is usually .35-.7mm thick.)

There are two varieties of the pinctada maxima, gold-lipped and silver-lipped. As the names imply, each type tends to produce either gold or white pearls. As I mentioned earlier, the colors that occur naturally in South Sea pearls tend to be very rare or impossible in other pearl types. These colors include gold, champagne (pale gold), blue with silver overtones, pink, or even pale green, and of course white. South Sea pearls are also known for their soft, satiny luster. The most valuable and sought after color is a deep, warm, gold.

As a consumer, there are several things you should watch out for when you buy these pearls. First of all, many retailers use terminology that is misleading or inaccurate. For example, “Baby South Sea” pearls are not South Sea. They are often freshwaters. Nor are “Tahitian South Sea” pearls South Sea. They are two completely different types of pearls from two different types of oysters! The same goes for “Black South Sea” pearls – those are Taitians because they come from the pinctada margaritifera, or black-lipped, oyster. Please avoid any retailer, on- or offline, that uses those terms. Most likely they either don’t know what they are talking about or are trying to mislead their customers.

South Sea pearls on the whole are the most expensive because they are so large, have so much nacre, and are relatively rare. Their warm and unusual colors and satiny luster make them standout choices for anyone’s pearl necklace.

Keshi (or keishi) pearls are a unique by-product of the pearl cultivation process in which the oyster, for some reason, rejects the implanted nucleus and a pearl develops anyway. Far from being unsellable, low quality rejects, keshis are very beautiful and a worthy addition to any pearl aficionado’s collection. Let me explain.

Keshi means “poppy seed” in Japanese, and that is a reasonable description of their shape. These pearls are generally very small (though large ones do exist) and because they have no nucleus, their shapes are highly irregular. Their lack of a nucleus is important for a couple reasons.

First, keshi pearls are all nacre (one caveat here: they are all nacre, but their lack of a nucleus means they can very rarely be hollow). This makes them similar to natural pearls but it’s important to know that they are not a natural product. Keshis occur as an accidental byproduct of cultivation, therefore they are man-made and must be described as such.

Second, because keshis have such a thick layer of nacre, they often display an absolutely incredible amount of orient. Orient could also be described as iridescence, but keshis often go beyond that, with colors that play both across the surface and within the depth of the pearl. You really have to see the way they shimmer to believe it!

Generally speaking, the term keshi is only used to describe saltwater pearls. This may be because cultured Akoya pearls produced the first keshis so for a long time they dominated the market. Supposedly there is a movement to legislate this but at this time it is unregulated. Freshwater keshi pearls also exist – they are produced by the same process – and in fact, as far as the Japanese are concerned keshi can refer to either saltwater or freshwater pearls.

These pearls used to be very inexpensive. However, producers of South Sea and Tahitian pearls have begun x-raying their oysters. Through these x-rays, they are able to see whether or not an oyster is rejecting the nucleation process and if so, re-nucleating it. This means that keshis from those regions are becoming more and more scarce, and ever more expensive.

If you would like your own pearl necklace made of keshis, Akoya and freshwater are probably the way to go – they are the least expensive and still generally have a very high orient. Freshwater pearls also occur in so many colors that you are guaranteed a wide selection. However, if you can find Tahitian or South Sea keshi pearls for a reasonable price you will be absolutely amazed at how beautiful they really are. Good luck in your search!

Classic pearl necklaces are a wardrobe essential, but every now and then you need a change. Not every occasion calls for the formality some pearl necklaces can project; some people also have negative associations regarding pearl necklaces and believe that they can look old-fashioned or just make you look older than you are. Coin pearls are a great alternative for whenever you might want to seem youthful and modern; they are also considered one of the more feminine shapes, and are widely available.

Coin pearls are part of a group of pearls that are classified by their shape. (Others include baroque, drop, and rice pearls.) Like the name suggests, coin pearls are cultivated in the shape of coins so that they are round but flat with soft edges. These are usually freshwater pearls so there are a wide array of colors available; however coin pearls are most often white.

Coin pearls have become very popular with young women today, which means that if you would like a coin pearl necklace you will have plenty of options! I believe their appeal stems from the fact that they are modern, project a fresh, youthful vibe, and avoid some of the stereotypes associated with pearl strands. Unlike traditional pearl necklaces, no one says that coin pearl necklaces can’t be worn by younger women or teens. If you ever feel that traditional necklaces age or date you, coin pearls may work very well as an alternative. They also make great earrings for much the same reasons I listed above.

In fact, coin pearl necklaces are a good choice for many different occasions, with some caveats. First of all, they tend to project femininity rather than power so keep that in mind. You may not want to wear coin pearls when you are heading up a business meeting depending on what image you are trying to project. Also, these pearl necklaces are very delicate in appearance so you don’t want to pair them with clothes that may overwhelm them (so stay away from clothes that are too bold when wearing this type of pearls). However, these pearls are wonderful any time you want to look feminine and modern, so keep them in mind for weddings, dates, or feminine, romantic attire.

Though you might not want to wear them everywhere, it’s definitely worth keeping some coin pearls in your collection. They are unique, modern, feminine, and most of all, they’ll make you stand out in a crowd.

If you want a pearl necklace but want a more exotic color than white, peacock pearls may be just what you’re looking for. These beautiful Tahitian pearls are highly sought after because not only are they unique, but they also have the ability to pair well with and even enhance any outfit. Dyed freshwater pearls can also be found in peacock; both types are gorgeous and are available in a variety of shapes.

Peacock pearls are a greenish-black type of Tahitian pearl. In fact, they are one of the most popular and valuable colors, right behind black. However, they may also be blue gray with a rose to purple overtone (much like a real peacock feather, which has a rainbow of colors). These pearls are often found in unusual shapes; the most common type is ringed, or circled. Drop pearls are also fairly common. Baroque pearls such as these offer a lovely, unconventional charm – that’s why they continue to be so popular even though they may not be the most “valuable.”

There are freshwater peacock pearls too – these are dyed and don’t have quite the same effect but will be must less expensive. Just be aware that some less trustworthy merchants may try to pass off their dyed freshwater pearls as genuine Tahitian peacock pearls. Be wary, and if you can see the pearls in person look for overtones such as rose, purple, or gray. You can also take a look at the luster of the pearls; freshwaters will appear creamier and less metallic, and may appear flatter due to the dye. They also may lack the brilliant orient that is present in Tahitians.

Because peacock is one of the most valuable colors, you might find yourself paying a considerable amount for a well matched pearl necklace. If you would like some less expensive alternatives, you might want to consider choosing peacock pearls for earrings, a single pearl necklace, a ring, or a floating pearl (tin cup) necklace. Freshwater pearls can also be very affordable and beautiful if make sure to buy quality. Also don’t pass up the opportunity to wear some lovely baroque pearls!

When it comes to saltwater pearls, Akoya embodies the traditional pearl necklace better than any other. These pearls are some of the most highly regarded in the world and with reason. However, there are some things you should know before you buy.

Akoya pearls are known for their high luster and their consistently round shape. In fact, they are the epitome of the classic pearl. They are usually white or cream with rose, silver, or ivory overtones – perfect for necklaces, which is they have been so popular. This type of pearls is usually on the smaller side of the spectrum with an average size of 2-11mm.

Akoya pearls were first cultivated by Kokichi Mikimoto in the 1920s and for many many years they were a purely Japanese product.  These days, things are changing and Akoya pearls are now being farmed in other countries such as South Korea, Vietnam, Australia and China. In fact, China is now Japan’s main competitor and the quality of their pearls is getting better all the time.

As a consumer it’s great to have options, but this has caused a lot of problems for struggling Japanese pearl farms. Their solution has been to import pearls from China and string them together with Japanese pearls so that they can be labeled a Japanese product. Though each hank of pearls is inspected to maintain high quality standards, the truth is that many Akoya pearl necklaces contain a mix of pearls from various countries.

This practice has made the term ‘Japanese Akoya pearls’ obsolete and in fact it is no longer allowed as an industry standard term. Retailers don’t have control over what they get either – most are honest and will tell you the origin if you ask but some will guarantee 100% Japanese Akoya pearls and this is false. Japanese pearl farms sell only to factories, not to retailers, so there is no real way to know.

Regardless of origin, Akoya pearls are highly regarded. The competition in the industry, while leading to some ‘interesting’ practices really means that in terms of quality the consumer wins. One clue to look for – Japanese farms focus on the larger end of the size scale while Chinese generally produce smaller pearls so that’s one way to differentiate between the two.

Though every Akoya is beautiful, there is one more level of quality within Akoya, called Hanadama. Hanadama pearls are the absolute cream of the crop and must undergo certification by the Pearl Science Laboratory of Japan before they can be designated as Hanadama. The qualifications are as follows:

• The nacre depth must be greater than .40 mm on any tested pearl – pearls within a strand are tested at random.
• The luster analysis (what is called the teri-value) analysis must be very strong.
• Analysis should slow only very slight imperfections.

There are no pearls with a perfect surface and the Pearl Science Laboratory never gives out a zero imperfection grade. This is because each pearl is unique and as an organic gem are guaranteed to be imperfect. However imperfections in Hanadama will be very hard to spot and they may even seem absolutely perfect without rigorous testing.

One very important thing to keep in mind when buying Hanadama is that the certificate must accompany the strand for it to be genuine. Also, these pearls are the best of the best out of each Akoya harvest so if someone claims to sell pearls that are “better than Hanadama” don’t fall for it! It’s just not possible. If they really were better they would have made the grade!

If you don’t know where to start when you’re looking for a pearl necklace, Akoyas are a very good choice because they are considered the classic pearl. However, you do need to keep in mind that there will most likely be a mix of Chinese and Japanese pearls on any given strand so don’t be fooled. Also keep in mind what to look for if you want Hanadama pearls. I hope this helps and good luck!

If you want a unique pearl necklace, then you might want to consider brown pearls. These pearls have recently come into fashion for several reasons but are still uncommon enough that you may be the only one wearing them! Here I’ll tell you everything you need to know about brown pearls and why you may like them.

I know a lot of people don’t care for brown, but it’s actually a good choice. First of all, many women look good in brown and because it is a neutral color, it is easy to match. Brown is also a great color for fall, when fashion generally turns to dark, rich colors. Furthermore, as I said above, you will stand out because no one else will be wearing brown pearls and they will want to know where you got them! If you’ve changed your mind, let’s cover what your options are.

The most popular choice right now are “chocolate” Tahitian pearls. This variety doesn’t occur in nature, but is generally put through a two-step process of heating and bleaching to bring out their color. Another type of brown is natural but is fairly rare. This type has red or pink overtones – similar to aubergine but with a beautiful definitely brown body color. Don’t care for either of these options? I’ve got one more for you.

Freshwater brown pearls are always dyed; however, there are a couple reasons why you may want them instead of Tahitians. First of all, the main appeal of Tahitians is their rainbow of colors – generally they have overtones that consist of many color combinations on the same pearl. The treatment used to bring out the chocolate color may make the pearls look flatter in comparison. Don’t worry, the color and luster are still exceptionally beautiful – but if you want to buy Tahitians, why not try the natural option?

Dyeing freshwater pearls, in contrast, doesn’t take anything away from the pearls at all. In fact, many freshwater pearls are treated whether through water irradiation, dye, or heat. Furthermore, they may be less expensive than Tahitians so it’s definitely worth it to shop around.

So I’ve covered why brown is a better choice than you may think and explained your options: treated Tahitian chocolate pearls, natural Tahitian pearls with red or pink overtones, and dyed freshwater pearls. Now that I’ve given you the knowledge, finding the perfect piece of jewelry is up to you!

Though today there are few Biwa pearls for sale, just a few decades ago most of the freshwater pearls on the market came from Lake Biwako. What happened? Here I’ll explain what the main appeal of Biwa pearls is, how they came to dominate the market, and why you don’t see many on the market today.

The rise of Biwa pearls began at nearly the same time as the freshwater pearl cultivation industry in Japan. The pearls found in the mussels of Lake Biwako (found North of the Japanese city of Kyoto) astounded everyone with their unique colors. Unlike other pearls, Biwas were often pink, purple, or purple brown. Not only that, their irregular shape and high quality enchanted those consumers who were often tired of traditional white pearl necklaces.

From that point until the 1970s pearls from Lake Biwa held a very high reputation. In fact, at one point Biwa pearl farms produced nearly the entire world supply of freshwater pearls. For that reason “Biwa” and “freshwater” were almost synonymous. However, production peaked shortly afterward and then fell into rapid decline.

Disaster struck – the “red tide” (algae bloom) killed off many of the pearl-producing mussels. Not only that, over harvesting led to their near extinction. The industry has had a hard time recovering. A hybrid mussel that produced pearls similar to Biwa was farmed in Lake Kasumigaura with some success but now they are suffering the same fate that befell Lake Biwa.

So what does Biwa mean today? First of all, overuse of the term “Biwa” led to regulation in the United States that only genuine Biwa pearls can be so named – so don’t worry, you won’t get just any freshwater pearls here. Believe it or not, you can still find Biwa pearl necklaces and they are still gorgeous. Here’s one thing to look for – because the mussels are often nucleated with a square piece of mother-of-pearl, Biwa pearls often take an irregular, rectangular shape. However, you may have the best luck searching for vintage necklaces as these are often higher quality than what is being sold these days.

If you are looking for a Biwa pearl necklace, I wish you the best of luck in your endeavors!

Pearl origins

A pearl is one of the only gems to come from a living organism, making them very valuable. There’s a reason the phrase “like pearls before swine” exists – pearls were at one time so incredibly rare that only the nobility or the extremely wealthy could afford to have them. Pearls are most often made by mollusks such as oysters but they may also be found in snails, conchs and other organisms. The process is generally the same – however, some organisms produce pearls that aren’t made of nacre. (I’ll explain nacre in a minute)

Basically, a small irritant gets into the mollusk’s mantle. It could be as small or smaller than a single grain of sand, but the mollusk will attempt to “quarantine” the irritant by covering it with nacre. Nacre, also called mother of pearl, is the substance that lines the inside of its shell. Over time, layers upon layers of nacre form around the foreign object, forming a pearl. This doesn’t happen very often – in fact, only one in ten thousand oysters ever produces a pearl naturally – and marketable pearls (round, with good luster and surface quality) are even more rare and valuable. You may be wondering why, if that is the case, are there so many pearls on the market? The reason all comes down to cultivation methods that make mass production possible. Most of the pearls you will find these days are cultured and without that process your pearl necklace would most likely not exist.

Cultured pearls and cultivation methods

Freshwater and saltwater pearls have different methods but they both result in a process that artificially stimulates the same process that would occur naturally. This means that they are all natural pearls(versus fake, faux, simulated, etc.) but they are less valuable because there are so many on the market.  Let’s take a quick look at the different methods for each.

Saltwater pearls use what is called ‘bead nucleation.’ A bead, piece of shell, or other small round object is inserted into the oyster’s mantle. The oyster then, as in nature, forms layers of nacre around the nucleated object. Because round beads are often used, saltwater pearls are more likely to be spherical than freshwater. However, each oyster only produces one pearl and depending on the species, survival rates can be low.

Freshwater pearls, on the other hand, use a small piece of mantle tissue to begin pearl formation process. As above, the mantle is inserted in the oyster, then harvested at a later date. Freshwater oysters tend to produce as many as twenty pearls from one oyster! Furthermore, the water can be irradiated to change the color very easily. Their quality is more or less equivalent to saltwater with a slight tendency to irregularity in shape.

Types of Pearls

There are a few main types of pearls on the market. These are mostly named according to region, though in general you may see references to freshwater or saltwater, which I have covered above.

Akoya: These are high quality Japanese (or Chinese) saltwater pearls. They tend to be smaller than some of the other varieties but make up for it with their extremely high quality. Colors tend to be white with rose, ivory, cream, or silver overtones, making them one of the best choices for a classic pearl necklace.

Tahitian:  The name is misleading as there are no pearl farms actually located in Tahiti. Instead pearls are harvested from all over French Polynesia. These are known for their intense, dark, often metallic colors. The black-lipped oyster which produces these pearls is the only one in the world to produce a true black. Other colors include peacock, pistachio, blue, brown, grey, and aubergine.

South Sea: South Sea Pearls are produced in the area between Australia and China. Known for their rich, warm, colors (most often gold), South Sea pearls are also among the largest on the market. Their average size is 13mm though they may also produce pearls as large as 20mm. (For reference, the average pearl size in a necklace is 7-8mm.) These pearls also have a very thick nacre, making them extremely beautiful as well as very durable.

Cortez: In the 1500s, the Gulf of California was known as the sea of pearls, and the pearls harvested from the region were in high demand. However, due to over-fishing the Panama black-lipped and rainbow-lipped oysters were hunted nearly to extinction. Nowadays the only marine cultured pearl farm is located there. They are known for their intense colors and are the only pearls qualified for the “Fair Trade Gems” protocols.

Conch Pearls: These pearls are not actually made of nacre, but are highly valued. They are produced by the Queen Conch mollusk which lives in the Caribbean. Since they cannot be cultured (yet) conch pearls are found very rarely. They are known for their pink colors and unique “flame” pattern.

Melo Melo Pearls: Like the conch above, these are also non-nacreous. They come from a marine snail called the melo melo, which lives in the South China Sea. Again, these are very rare because there is no known cultivation method. Melo melo pearls are best known for their size (very large) and shape (very round). The most valuable color is orange.

Abalone Pearls: These natural pearls are found in the Hailiotis abalone (also called the paua by New Zealanders.) Though they can be cultured, it is a very difficult process – abalone are hemophiliacs! One single nick while nucleating could kill them. For that reason, only mabe pearls can be produced successfully. A beautiful iridescent blue is the most common color and they are popular in New Zealand and Australia, though not yet in the Western Hemisphere.

Scallop Pearls: Like the conch and melo melo, these are not made of nacre but are produced by a similar process. They are found in the “Pacific Lion’s Paw” mollusk which lives in the waters around North and Central America. Scallop pearls are often maroon, plum, orange, and pink, and are very rare.

Though I have listed many different types, the most common are freshwater (usually from China), Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea.

Tahitian pearls have recently grown in popularity, and for good reason. Their lovely array of intense, dark colors (from black, peacock, pistachio, to even blue!) is unusual and stands out when compared to the classic white of Akoya pearls. In fact, the range of colors is so large that these pearls are fairly rare – especially black! Have I managed to pique your interest yet? Well, read on and you’ll be truly hooked!

One of the intriguing things about Tahitian pearls is that they aren’t actually produced in Tahiti, but rather on/around islands throughout French Polynesia. They all come from the same type of oyster, though. The black-lipped oyster (pinctada margaritifera) is the only one in the world to produce the intense colors that Tahitian pearls are known for. Though they are farmed in a wide range of areas, only the ones in the area around French Polynesia can be called Tahitian! Before the advent of modern culturing techniques, these oysters were farmed nearly to extinction, and the pearl industry didn’t gain momentum there until the 1960′s.

As I mentioned earlier, these pearls are known for their wide variety of colors. Perhaps they are most well known for producing the only true black (any other pearl has to be dyed to achieve that color) but their lovely orient means that endless color variations are possible. Even black often has gray or green overtones! In general, the body colors are mostly black, gray, green, brown, or blue. The overtones may be gold, blue, silver, eggplant, pink, or peacock green. Black pearls with peacock overtones are the most valuable; however, there has recently been a surge in demand for pearls with lighter colors such as pistachio. Because of the huge amount of possible body color/overtone combinations, it is hard to find a perfectly matched pearl necklace. Nevertheless, even necklaces made of many colors are strikingly beautiful.

Tahitian pearls are generally on the large side – from 8mm to 14mm – and are required to have .8mm of nacre. Anything less is not released for sale. This guarantees pearls that are lustrous and more resistant to chipping. They also may come in the same variety of shapes as any other type of pearl with the addition of a “circled” or “ringed” shape. Ringed pearls have tiny grooves covering more than a third of the pearl’s surface, giving them a unique shape.

One thing to keep in mind when buying Tahitian pearls is that the grading system is different from that used to grade Akoya. The Tahitian system uses grades A through D, with A being the highest. Grade “A”  pearls have high luster and little to no visible surface flaws over 90% of the pearl’s surface. “B” is medium-high luster with some visible flaws confined to less than one third of the surface. A medium luster pearl with flaws that cover more than a third is rated “C”. Finally, a pearl receiving a “D” grade will have flaws covering at least two-thirds of the surface. Luster is not considered.

The vibrant, almost metallic colors that are found in Tahitian pearls make them a great choice for anyone wanting to stand out in a crowd. These pearls can’t help but draw the eye. From intense blues, greens and blacks, to lighter, pastel shades, there is something for everyone. Their unique ringed pearls are also a great option! Just be aware that you’ll have to navigate a different grading system when you buy.

These pearls, like coin pearls, are also classified by their shape. The name comes from the days when Chinese pearl farms were just entering the market. Their freshwater pearls were low-quality, small, and irregular – in fact they looked just like the cereal Rice Krispies. They may also be called oval pearls, but generally the name ‘rice’ has been the one that stuck.

Even though the quality of Chinese pearls has greatly improved (to the point where they are giving Japanese Akoya pearl farms a run for their money) their rice krispy pearls still bear the stigma of their low-quality predecessors. The good news is, these aren’t horribly popular so you may be able to get a great deal. They are also a popular choice for beaders because they are so inexpensive and easy to find. Also, because they are generally freshwater pearls, if you’d like a pearl necklace made out of them you will have many colors to choose from!