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Posts Tagged ‘ cultured pearls ’

Drop Pearls

March 20, 2010 by

Drop pearls are another unique type of pearl categorized by their shape (much like coin and rice pearls). Rather than being completely round or spherical, these may be either pear or teardrop shaped, depending in part on their origin. The ‘drop’ part of the pearl may be long or it may be on the shorter side but these pearls are always symmetrical, which is a huge part of their appeal. I personally like the ones that look like raindrops. :)

So what types of drop pearls are available? Truth be told, most of the drop pearls on the market today are freshwater. This isn’t a bad thing – freshwater pearls come in many colors, and can be easily dyed to produce rare (brown for example) or nearly impossible colors – think deep purple or cranberry red. Not only that, but freshwater pearls are widely available and of comparable quality to their saltwater counterparts.

You can also find both Tahitian and South Sea drop pearls, with Tahitian being slightly easier to find (and possibly less expensive too!). Most of the Tahitian drop pearls I’ve seen online are in peacock – however, Tahitians come in so many different colors that with a little searching you may be able to find others.

I’ve heard of baroque Akoyas that are close to drop pearls, but was unable to find any when I looked. Generally speaking, the quality control on Akoya pearls is strict enough that there may be very few drop pearls on the market.

Drop pearls are most often found in earrings or pendants (try looking for a single pearl necklace if nothing turns up when you search for pendants). Traditional pearl strands made entirely of drop pearls are harder to find but they do exist and seem to mostly consist of Tahitians. You might also try looking for a floating pearl or tin cup necklace made entirely of drop pearls for a very unique look. No matter what you choose, these pearls really bring attention to your face and will help you stand out from the crowd.

While it may be easier to find round pearls due to their popularity and value, shopping online makes things much easier. The downside is that some online retailers make false claims so it can be hard to know who you can trust. Here are some reputable companies that carry drop pearls:

Good luck finding the right pearls for you!

(I’m not affiliated with the above retailers but I have seen them discussed around the web. Generally all four sites have a very good reputation but as always, exercise caution!)

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South Sea Pearls

March 20, 2010 by

South Sea pearls are a great addition to anyone’s collection. Their warm colors, large size, and thick nacre make them both unique and durable. If you want a gold pearl, South Sea is the way to go! Here’s a little more information about these spectacular pearls.

South Sea pearls are harvested from the pinctada maxima oyster, found throughout the Indian and Pacific Oceans, and are known for their warm overtones and colors that rarely occur in other pearl types. These pearls are mainly produced in Australia, the Phillippines, Indonesia, and Myanmar.

These pearls are among the largest cultured pearls in the world, for reasons that I’ll explain in a minute. You may recall that an average pearl is about 7-8mm with some types, such as Akoya, running a little smaller. South Sea pearls, on the other hand, are somewhere between 9mm-20mm! The smallest South Sea pearl is larger than the average Akoya and the average (at 13mm) is nearly twice as large.

One reason for their incredible size is the size of the oyster itself. Pinctada maxima oysters can grow up to 12 inches in diameter so they can handle a larger nucleus. These pearls are also left to grow for a relatively long time – a minimum of 2 years before being harvested. Finally, the warm and clean waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans are conducive to quick nacre growth so they are able to grow larger, more quickly. This is also a reason for their unusually average nacre thickness of 2-6mm. (For reference, the nacre in Akoyas is usually .35-.7mm thick.)

There are two varieties of the pinctada maxima, gold-lipped and silver-lipped. As the names imply, each type tends to produce either gold or white pearls. As I mentioned earlier, the colors that occur naturally in South Sea pearls tend to be very rare or impossible in other pearl types. These colors include gold, champagne (pale gold), blue with silver overtones, pink, or even pale green, and of course white. South Sea pearls are also known for their soft, satiny luster. The most valuable and sought after color is a deep, warm, gold.

As a consumer, there are several things you should watch out for when you buy these pearls. First of all, many retailers use terminology that is misleading or inaccurate. For example, “Baby South Sea” pearls are not South Sea. They are often freshwaters. Nor are “Tahitian South Sea” pearls South Sea. They are two completely different types of pearls from two different types of oysters! The same goes for “Black South Sea” pearls – those are Taitians because they come from the pinctada margaritifera, or black-lipped, oyster. Please avoid any retailer, on- or offline, that uses those terms. Most likely they either don’t know what they are talking about or are trying to mislead their customers.

South Sea pearls on the whole are the most expensive because they are so large, have so much nacre, and are relatively rare. Their warm and unusual colors and satiny luster make them standout choices for anyone’s pearl necklace.

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Keshi Pearls

March 12, 2010 by

Keshi (or keishi) pearls are a unique by-product of the pearl cultivation process in which the oyster, for some reason, rejects the implanted nucleus and a pearl develops anyway. Far from being unsellable, low quality rejects, keshis are very beautiful and a worthy addition to any pearl aficionado’s collection. Let me explain.

Keshi means “poppy seed” in Japanese, and that is a reasonable description of their shape. These pearls are generally very small (though large ones do exist) and because they have no nucleus, their shapes are highly irregular. Their lack of a nucleus is important for a couple reasons.

First, keshi pearls are all nacre (one caveat here: they are all nacre, but their lack of a nucleus means they can very rarely be hollow). This makes them similar to natural pearls but it’s important to know that they are not a natural product. Keshis occur as an accidental byproduct of cultivation, therefore they are man-made and must be described as such.

Second, because keshis have such a thick layer of nacre, they often display an absolutely incredible amount of orient. Orient could also be described as iridescence, but keshis often go beyond that, with colors that play both across the surface and within the depth of the pearl. You really have to see the way they shimmer to believe it!

Generally speaking, the term keshi is only used to describe saltwater pearls. This may be because cultured Akoya pearls produced the first keshis so for a long time they dominated the market. Supposedly there is a movement to legislate this but at this time it is unregulated. Freshwater keshi pearls also exist – they are produced by the same process – and in fact, as far as the Japanese are concerned keshi can refer to either saltwater or freshwater pearls.

These pearls used to be very inexpensive. However, producers of South Sea and Tahitian pearls have begun x-raying their oysters. Through these x-rays, they are able to see whether or not an oyster is rejecting the nucleation process and if so, re-nucleating it. This means that keshis from those regions are becoming more and more scarce, and ever more expensive.

If you would like your own pearl necklace made of keshis, Akoya and freshwater are probably the way to go – they are the least expensive and still generally have a very high orient. Freshwater pearls also occur in so many colors that you are guaranteed a wide selection. However, if you can find Tahitian or South Sea keshi pearls for a reasonable price you will be absolutely amazed at how beautiful they really are. Good luck in your search!

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Coin Pearls

March 11, 2010 by

Classic pearl necklaces are a wardrobe essential, but every now and then you need a change. Not every occasion calls for the formality some pearl necklaces can project; some people also have negative associations regarding pearl necklaces and believe that they can look old-fashioned or just make you look older than you are. Coin pearls are a great alternative for whenever you might want to seem youthful and modern; they are also considered one of the more feminine shapes, and are widely available.

Coin pearls are part of a group of pearls that are classified by their shape. (Others include baroque, drop, and rice pearls.) Like the name suggests, coin pearls are cultivated in the shape of coins so that they are round but flat with soft edges. These are usually freshwater pearls so there are a wide array of colors available; however coin pearls are most often white.

Coin pearls have become very popular with young women today, which means that if you would like a coin pearl necklace you will have plenty of options! I believe their appeal stems from the fact that they are modern, project a fresh, youthful vibe, and avoid some of the stereotypes associated with pearl strands. Unlike traditional pearl necklaces, no one says that coin pearl necklaces can’t be worn by younger women or teens. If you ever feel that traditional necklaces age or date you, coin pearls may work very well as an alternative. They also make great earrings for much the same reasons I listed above.

In fact, coin pearl necklaces are a good choice for many different occasions, with some caveats. First of all, they tend to project femininity rather than power so keep that in mind. You may not want to wear coin pearls when you are heading up a business meeting depending on what image you are trying to project. Also, these pearl necklaces are very delicate in appearance so you don’t want to pair them with clothes that may overwhelm them (so stay away from clothes that are too bold when wearing this type of pearls). However, these pearls are wonderful any time you want to look feminine and modern, so keep them in mind for weddings, dates, or feminine, romantic attire.

Though you might not want to wear them everywhere, it’s definitely worth keeping some coin pearls in your collection. They are unique, modern, feminine, and most of all, they’ll make you stand out in a crowd.

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Peacock Pearls

March 10, 2010 by

If you want a pearl necklace but want a more exotic color than white, peacock pearls may be just what you’re looking for. These beautiful Tahitian pearls are highly sought after because not only are they unique, but they also have the ability to pair well with and even enhance any outfit. Dyed freshwater pearls can also be found in peacock; both types are gorgeous and are available in a variety of shapes.

Peacock pearls are a greenish-black type of Tahitian pearl. In fact, they are one of the most popular and valuable colors, right behind black. However, they may also be blue gray with a rose to purple overtone (much like a real peacock feather, which has a rainbow of colors). These pearls are often found in unusual shapes; the most common type is ringed, or circled. Drop pearls are also fairly common. Baroque pearls such as these offer a lovely, unconventional charm – that’s why they continue to be so popular even though they may not be the most “valuable.”

There are freshwater peacock pearls too – these are dyed and don’t have quite the same effect but will be must less expensive. Just be aware that some less trustworthy merchants may try to pass off their dyed freshwater pearls as genuine Tahitian peacock pearls. Be wary, and if you can see the pearls in person look for overtones such as rose, purple, or gray. You can also take a look at the luster of the pearls; freshwaters will appear creamier and less metallic, and may appear flatter due to the dye. They also may lack the brilliant orient that is present in Tahitians.

Because peacock is one of the most valuable colors, you might find yourself paying a considerable amount for a well matched pearl necklace. If you would like some less expensive alternatives, you might want to consider choosing peacock pearls for earrings, a single pearl necklace, a ring, or a floating pearl (tin cup) necklace. Freshwater pearls can also be very affordable and beautiful if make sure to buy quality. Also don’t pass up the opportunity to wear some lovely baroque pearls!

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When it comes to saltwater pearls, Akoya embodies the traditional pearl necklace better than any other. These pearls are some of the most highly regarded in the world and with reason. However, there are some things you should know before you buy.

Akoya pearls are known for their high luster and their consistently round shape. In fact, they are the epitome of the classic pearl. They are usually white or cream with rose, silver, or ivory overtones – perfect for necklaces, which is they have been so popular. This type of pearls is usually on the smaller side of the spectrum with an average size of 2-11mm.

Akoya pearls were first cultivated by Kokichi Mikimoto in the 1920s and for many many years they were a purely Japanese product.  These days, things are changing and Akoya pearls are now being farmed in other countries such as South Korea, Vietnam, Australia and China. In fact, China is now Japan’s main competitor and the quality of their pearls is getting better all the time.

As a consumer it’s great to have options, but this has caused a lot of problems for struggling Japanese pearl farms. Their solution has been to import pearls from China and string them together with Japanese pearls so that they can be labeled a Japanese product. Though each hank of pearls is inspected to maintain high quality standards, the truth is that many Akoya pearl necklaces contain a mix of pearls from various countries.

This practice has made the term ‘Japanese Akoya pearls’ obsolete and in fact it is no longer allowed as an industry standard term. Retailers don’t have control over what they get either – most are honest and will tell you the origin if you ask but some will guarantee 100% Japanese Akoya pearls and this is false. Japanese pearl farms sell only to factories, not to retailers, so there is no real way to know.

Regardless of origin, Akoya pearls are highly regarded. The competition in the industry, while leading to some ‘interesting’ practices really means that in terms of quality the consumer wins. One clue to look for – Japanese farms focus on the larger end of the size scale while Chinese generally produce smaller pearls so that’s one way to differentiate between the two.

Though every Akoya is beautiful, there is one more level of quality within Akoya, called Hanadama. Hanadama pearls are the absolute cream of the crop and must undergo certification by the Pearl Science Laboratory of Japan before they can be designated as Hanadama. The qualifications are as follows:

  • The nacre depth must be greater than .40 mm on any tested pearl – pearls within a strand are tested at random.
  • The luster analysis (what is called the teri-value) analysis must be very strong.
  • Analysis should slow only very slight imperfections.

There are no pearls with a perfect surface and the Pearl Science Laboratory never gives out a zero imperfection grade. This is because each pearl is unique and as an organic gem are guaranteed to be imperfect. However imperfections in Hanadama will be very hard to spot and they may even seem absolutely perfect without rigorous testing.

One very important thing to keep in mind when buying Hanadama is that the certificate must accompany the strand for it to be genuine. Also, these pearls are the best of the best out of each Akoya harvest so if someone claims to sell pearls that are “better than Hanadama” don’t fall for it! It’s just not possible. If they really were better they would have made the grade!

If you don’t know where to start when you’re looking for a pearl necklace, Akoyas are a very good choice because they are considered the classic pearl. However, you do need to keep in mind that there will most likely be a mix of Chinese and Japanese pearls on any given strand so don’t be fooled. Also keep in mind what to look for if you want Hanadama pearls. I hope this helps and good luck!

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Though today there are few Biwa pearls for sale, just a few decades ago most of the freshwater pearls on the market came from Lake Biwako. What happened? Here I’ll explain what the main appeal of Biwa pearls is, how they came to dominate the market, and why you don’t see many on the market today.

The rise of Biwa pearls began at nearly the same time as the freshwater pearl cultivation industry in Japan. The pearls found in the mussels of Lake Biwako (found North of the Japanese city of Kyoto) astounded everyone with their unique colors. Unlike other pearls, Biwas were often pink, purple, or purple brown. Not only that, their irregular shape and high quality enchanted those consumers who were often tired of traditional white pearl necklaces.

From that point until the 1970s pearls from Lake Biwa held a very high reputation. In fact, at one point Biwa pearl farms produced nearly the entire world supply of freshwater pearls. For that reason “Biwa” and “freshwater” were almost synonymous. However, production peaked shortly afterward and then fell into rapid decline.

Disaster struck – the “red tide” (algae bloom) killed off many of the pearl-producing mussels. Not only that, over harvesting led to their near extinction. The industry has had a hard time recovering. A hybrid mussel that produced pearls similar to Biwa was farmed in Lake Kasumigaura with some success but now they are suffering the same fate that befell Lake Biwa.

So what does Biwa mean today? First of all, overuse of the term “Biwa” led to regulation in the United States that only genuine Biwa pearls can be so named – so don’t worry, you won’t get just any freshwater pearls here. Believe it or not, you can still find Biwa pearl necklaces and they are still gorgeous. Here’s one thing to look for – because the mussels are often nucleated with a square piece of mother-of-pearl, Biwa pearls often take an irregular, rectangular shape. However, you may have the best luck searching for vintage necklaces as these are often higher quality than what is being sold these days.

If you are looking for a Biwa pearl necklace, I wish you the best of luck in your endeavors!

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This post is going to be fairly short, but I just wanted to share a video from Honora Pearls that I found on Youtube. This video not only shows the differences between natural and cultured pearls, but also shows the various types of cultured pearls available, including Akoya, South Sea, and Freshwater Pearls. It’s worth watching – so far I haven’t been able to provide any visuals but this video will show you the colors each type has, its main characteristics (ie which shapes are most prevalent for each type) and best of all, you can see what high quality pearls from each variety look like. They really do a great job! Enjoy :)

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When you hear people talk about natural pearls or cultured pearls it can be a little confusing at first. The important thing to remember is that the process by which the pearl is created is the main difference. They are both natural pearls (as opposed to fake pearls) and generally have the same qualities. However, should you get your hands on a natural pearl make sure to have it examined by a gemologist – they are extremely rare!

The rarity of natural pearls is due to their formative process. Basically, if an irritant such as a little bit of sand should come between the mantle and the shell of a mollusk, then it is sealed off and coated with many layers of nacre. It’s an oyster or other mollusk’s defense mechanism to protect itself! This doesn’t occur very often in the wild and even when it does it is very unlikely to form a perfectly round pearl. Apparently only one in 10,000 oysters ever produces a pearl like this so they are incredibly expensive.

Any time you buy a pearl necklace you are much more likely to be getting one made of cultured pearls. The cultivation process involves inserting some form of nucleus to stimulate the production of nacre. Saltwater pearls use a bead or shell nucleus, making them perfectly round but with a thinner layer of nacre. Freshwater oysters are nucleated with a small piece of mantle so they have thicker nacre but the shape is more likely to irregular. Basically culturing just means control over the whole process and has allowed for the mass production of pearls.

So are there any differences? The answer is no, not really! Both natural and cultured pearls have all the same qualities but you will rarely see natural pearls on the market. There’s no reason to be worried about the quality or authenticity of your cultured pearls. Enjoy them for their beauty and if you do happen to obtain a natural pearl, treasure it for its rarity.

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Rice Pearls

January 20, 2010 by

These pearls, like coin pearls, are also classified by their shape. The name comes from the days when Chinese pearl farms were just entering the market. Their freshwater pearls were low-quality, small, and irregular – in fact they looked just like the cereal Rice Krispies. They may also be called oval pearls, but generally the name ‘rice’ has been the one that stuck.

Even though the quality of Chinese pearls has greatly improved (to the point where they are giving Japanese Akoya pearl farms a run for their money) their rice krispy pearls still bear the stigma of their low-quality predecessors. The good news is, these aren’t horribly popular so you may be able to get a great deal. They are also a popular choice for beaders because they are so inexpensive and easy to find. Also, because they are generally freshwater pearls, if you’d like a pearl necklace made out of them you will have many colors to choose from!

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