About Pearls

Overview

Simulated pearls have existed for over a thousand years. In fact, evidence suggests that people have been trying to produce imitation pearls since approximately 83 A.D. That’s when Chinese Philosopher Wang Chhung (or Wang Ch’ung) recorded his thoughts on how heating, proper timing, and the right mix of chemicals could be combined to form pearls that were quite close to the real thing. At the time, natural pearls were so rare and valuable that they were exorbitantly expensive. In fact, pearls were worth more than gold in many parts of the world, so it’s only natural that people would want to imitate the beauty of genuine pearls.

Experiments continued throughout the years with few mentions of imitation pearls. The Venetians discovered a method by which they could create beautiful iridescent glass in the 16th century, but the industry did not take off until finally a man named Jacquin discovered that the shimmer of fish scales could be used to create a substance known as “pearlessence” or “essence d’orient.” He was able to create simulated pearls by coating glass beads with essence d’orient and then filling them with wax. Unfortunately, getting the materials for pearlessence required harvesting scales from thousands of fish. These days, many faux pearls use other methods. For example, some manufacturers use plastic beads instead of glass. Also, while some companies still use pearlessence, others cover their beads in pearl film.

There’s nothing wrong with simulated pearls; in fact, well-made versions can be quite pretty. It can be helpful to know the different types on the market so that you know whether your pearls are real or not, however.

Types

If you are shopping for simulated pearls, you should look for strands that are labeled fake, faux, simulated, artificial, imitation, or man-made. Manufacturers and retailers are supposed to disclose this information, but unfortunately this doesn’t always happen. There are specific brands/types that are always artificial, including:

• Red Sea
• Laguna
• Mallorca/Majorica/Majorca
• LaTausca
• Shell (a specific type of artificial pearl)
• Pearlfection (more about them below)
• Mayoka (this might be the same as Majorca)
• Misaki
• Swarovski (these are made of glass beads and are generally high quality in comparison to others)

Pearlfection has, in the past, been promoted in such a way that consumers might be confused. I’m not sure if this is on the company’s shoulders, or on the retailers/programs that promote them (QVC, etc). However, some of the claims I’ve heard are that these pearls are as much as 98% real, they are not imitation, their black pearls are from the Pinctada Margaritefera oyster (that produces black Tahitian pearls), a jeweler would not be able to tell whether their strand was real or not, and black is a natural color in Akoya pearls. Now, please be aware that none of these claims are true! Pearlfections pearls are indeed simulated.

Tests

What if you aren’t sure of the authenticity of your strand of pearls? Do you know how to tell the difference between real and fake pearls? Here are six common tests:

• The tooth test. This one is something that many people in the industry swear by. To perform this test, run a pearl over your teeth (lightly!). Natural pearls should have a gritty feel, whereas simulated pearls should feel relatively smooth. The problem with this test is that cultured pearls tend to feel nearly as smooth as their man-made cousins. Basically, if your pearl(s) feel gritty, you’ve most likely got naturals; if they feel smooth, move on to another test.

• Magnification. Under close inspection, real pearls should have ridges, grooves, or other surface imperfections. Simulated pearls are designed to be perfectly smooth. You should also inspect the drill holes carefully. The drill hole of a fake pearl will probably be ragged and uneven; you might even see some dye peeling around the edges.

• Sunlight. Take your pearls out and look at them in the sun. Real pearls have more depth (due to the nacre) and color variation. Simulated pearls tend to have very little shine when compared to the real thing. They also lack that “inner glow” that pearls with very high luster possess. If you have a pearl necklace, take a look at several pearls in the same strand. Do they match exactly? If the colors are exactly the same, with little to no variation, chances are that your pearls are man-made.

• Density. This one can be a bit tricky. In general, real pearls will feel heavier than simulated ones. High-quality artificial pearls may feel just like real pearls, unfortunately.

• X-ray. If you’re willing to pay an expert to x-ray your pearls, this is the best test of all. An x-ray can tell you several things: whether your pearls are real, whether they are natural or cultured, and whether they have been dyed. This can be a bit expensive but is well worth the cost if you have any doubt.

• Destructive tests. This category includes tests that most people wouldn’t care to perform. For example, you could try cutting your pearls open to see what the core looks like. Alternatively, you could try heat, water, or one of several other tests that involve destroying your pearls. If you want to try one of these in the name of science, go for it – but don’t try these if you want to wear your pearls ever again.

Care

Simulated pearls are more durable than natural ones in some ways, and less so in others. On the whole, caring for simulated pearls is relatively easy. Like real pearls, make sure that you avoid acids or body oils. Although these babies can handle a bit of heat, cooking with them might not be the best idea. Unlike the real thing, man-made pearls can handle some light cleansers, so be sure to clean them every so often with a soft cloth. One thing that you should watch out for – the outer layers of dye or coating may occasionally peel or scratch off. Low-quality strands may be especially susceptible to this type of damage. To keep your necklace (or other type of jewelry) looking great, store in a bag or jewelry box away from things that might scratch.

Simulated, man-made, artificial – they all mean the same thing. Although these pearls are not real, sometimes they can be well worth the purchase. Just make sure that you know what you’re getting before you buy!

South Sea pearls are best known for their warm gold color. Although these pearls can also be found in champagne, silvery blue, or even pink, the golden pearl is the most popular. I’ve heard that these pearls are more rare than other types; I’m not sure this is true, but I do know that South Sea pearls are the largest pearls in the world. Their beautiful color, thick nacre, and satiny luster make these pearls a good investment for any pearl aficionado.

Golden pearls come from pearl farms in Indonesia, Australia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. The clean, warm waters of the South Seas are home to the Pinctada Maxima oyster – the largest in the world. The oyster’s size allows pearls to grow as large as 9-20mm, with an average nacre thickness of 2-6mm. The thick nacre makes these pearls more lustrous; it also makes them slightly more durable than other saltwater pearls, particularly Akoyas.

So how much should you expect to pay for a golden pearl necklace? The answer will depend on the retailer and the quality of the pearls. A necklace made out of AAA (the highest quality) South Sea pearls may cost as much as $7,000; however, you might be able to find less expensive necklaces if you are willing to settle for lower quality pearls. Alternatively, try looking for a single pearl necklace, bracelet, or floating pearl necklace.

Before you start shopping, you should know some of the common pitfalls to avoid when buying pearls online. First of all, pearls are graded from A to AAA+. You should not buy pearls from any company that claims to sell AAAA pearls, as they will often inflate the price due to their perceived higher quality pearls. Some retailers might also claim to sell “baby South Sea” pearls. More often than not, these are freshwater pearls that have been dyed or treated to obtain their lovely gold color. I wouldn’t assume that all companies that sell these pearls are trying to scam their customers, but it is a red flag. Finally, be aware that “Tahitian South Sea pearls” is a bit of a misnomer as well. Pearls are either Tahitian or South Sea – not both.

A golden pearl necklace made out of genuine South Sea pearls can be well worth the high price tag. Make sure to shop around and consider other styles before you make a final decision, however!

A pearl necklace is a classic piece of jewelry found in many ladies jewelry boxes, usually an heirloom piece from a Grandmother or a Great Aunt.  Pearl necklaces say “class,” just from their simple beauty.
Ah, but a grey pearl necklace is a classic piece of jewelry with a subtle twist, a twist that says “grace”, “elegance” but also says “individuality”. It states that the person wearing the necklace is classy but in their own way. They have grace but they have a feel for the unique also. They are who they are. They are a Grey Pearl.

There are many different types of grey pearls that can be made into beautiful grey pearl necklaces. Upon some research, these are the two that I found the most interesting and unique.

The Marjorica Pearl is an elegant looking gemstone that is actually man-made. The Island of Marjorca, an island of Spanish decent located in the Mediterranean, first made Marjorica Pearls a century or more ago. Majorica Pearls do not form on mollusks but form on balls of solid glass covered with a unique, special paste. A 10mm single strand of Marjorica pearls will cost approximately $200.00 to $300.00, quite a good deal for such a stunning pearl.

My favorite, however, is the Natural Grey South Sea Pearl. A grey pearl necklace made of these would be stunning but simple and elegant. Grey South Sea Pearls are grown in the tepid seas of Tahiti and sometimes are referred to as Tahitian Pearls. South Sea Pearls that are harvested can be four times bigger than the oysters that grow Akoya Pearls, which is a grey japanese pearl. South Sea Pearls are the highest valued pearl out of three main types of pearl. An 8mm single strand of Grey Tahitian Pearls will cost $1000.00 to $3000.00, depending on the jeweler. Be sure to choose a reputable jeweler as to get the best quality pearls at a fair price.

A grey pearl necklace can be just the thing for the lady in your life, either for a birthday or anniversary or just because you cherish her and want to make sure she knows it. Whatever the reason, with all the choices that are out there, you are bound to find just the right grey pearl necklace for your special lady. Show her how you feel with a grey pearl necklace. This is a unique statement of grace. For that uniquely graceful special lady in your life.


For centuries purple has been the color of royalty, mystery, and magic. It seems that pearls, with their inner glow and aura of mystery, would be perfect in purple, but, unfortunately for those of us who like the color, purple pearls are incredibly difficult to find and often very expensive. Even if you do find one, they can be difficult to sell. Why? The answer is that there are only two varieties and of those, one is a clam that only rarely produces pearls. Let me explain a little more…

The first type of purple pearl comes from the Quahog clam found off the coast of the Eastern United States. These clams have a brilliant purple shell, so the pearls they produce are also a beautiful purple color. In fact, it was this particular clam that Native Americans used to make wampum, then used as a type of currency.  Many years ago it wasn’t uncommon for people to find pearls while shucking clams or even eating them (and it happened within the last decade too) but the increased mechanization of the shucking process means these pearls are probably being crushed or discarded before anyone gets the chance to find them. This means that they are incredibly rare and valuable. However, because there isn’t a market for them at the moment they are also very hard to sell. On top of that, Quahog pearls are brittle and hard to drill. If you should find one or wish to buy one, the safest place to keep it may be in a bottle.

While you may not be able to find natural pearls in quite the same shade as the beautiful Quahog pearls, freshwaters are available in lavender. They don’t have to be dyed – lavender is just one of their many natural colors (others being pink, peach, or white, for example). Otherwise, if you would like more traditional, rich purple colors, the only option is dye. Just remember to be careful when buying dyed pearls because it is often the lower quality ones that are dyed. Make sure that, at the least, they have a blemish-free surface and decent luster.

While many of us wish that deep purple pearls were more common, the truth is that Quahog pearls are unlikely to ever be mass-produced, leaving lavender freshwaters or dyed pearls as the only other options.  Not that I dislike freshwaters! They’re gorgeous, and because their lavender occurs naturally, and their nacre is so thick, they will be very durable. Even dyed pearls can look gorgeous if you do a little searching and make sure to double check their quality.  The bottom line: if you want a purple pearl necklace, it’s out there for you somewhere!

White pearls are unquestionably beautiful – at their best, they glow with an inner light that enhances any woman’s beauty. Of course, though white may be the most sought after color, there are plenty of other colors out there. Pink, for example, has been the “girl’s color” for ages, and with good reason – pink flatters nearly anyone’s skin tone and brings to mind the soft colors of roses. While not necessarily the best choice for someone who doesn’t want to seem like a delicate flower, cultured pink pearls make a wonderful gift. The best part is that pink can be a naturally occurring color! Intrigued yet?

There are many types of pearls on the market these days, and more than of a few them come in pink. However, freshwater pearls are, in my opinion, your best choice. Why? Not only are they more affordable than Akoya or South Sea pearls, but they don’t have to be dyed or treated in any way to achieve the pastels they are most known for. That’s right – pink, peach, and lavender are all natural colors. This is important to take into consideration because dyed or treated pearls are often, but not always, less durable than those that haven’t been treated. Common problems include dye chipping or flaking; sometimes dye is visible around the drill holes.

Akoya and South Sea Pearls, though not available in a true pink, do have pearls with rose overtones available. The body color is white, however, making these a very popular choice for brides. The upside is that the rose overtones make the pearls seem less cold when compared to the pure white versions. The downside – as far as I know, Akoya pearls have to be color treated to achieve the perfect rose color. It’s not a huge drawback, but is something to be aware of, and the expense of buying Akoya and South Sea pearls makes it important to be informed at every step of the buying process.

Overall pink is a wonderful color for nearly any occasion. While it doesn’t have the formality and classic appeal of white, pink pearl jewelry holds a more feminine, casual appeal. Peach flatters nearly any skin tone, though if you don’t find it works for you, the cooler tones of lavender may be a better fit. Finally, buying white pearls with rose overtones is another option that makes these pearls suitable for weddings or any other occasion in which you want your beauty to shine without wearing the same pearl necklace as anyone else.

Pearls are elegant, delicate, and above all, feminine, making  pearl bracelets a great choice anytime you want to draw attention to your wrists. These bracelets come in many different, equally beautiful forms from cuffs to multi-strand bracelets to a bracelet version of the ever-popular tin cup pearl necklace. Furthermore, you can find them in any color under the sun.

Before you buy a bracelet, either as a gift for yourself or someone you love, think about the types of situations you might encounter. The most formal type of bracelet consists of a single strand with the classic Akoya pearls we know and love. However, there are many other types available as well. Double and triple strand bracelets look great when you want a piece of jewelry that’s a little less delicate. You can also find cuff bracelets that are decorated with pearls – these are a great option too! You might also consider “woven” bracelets which have many strands intertwined. Lastly, the most delicate pearl bracelet is the “tin cup.” This is a bracelet version of the popular necklace, consisting of pearls spaced along a fine chain or strand of silken thread at regular intervals. The result is strikingly feminine – one reason the trend has endured.

The most inexpensive type of pearl bracelets available are freshwater. While these are more casual than Akoya, they are much more affordable and often of equal quality. Freshadama pearls are nearly indistinguishable from Akoya and because they are all nacre (due to the cultivation process) they tend to be more durable. Freshwater pearls also come in a wide variety of colors from natural (pink, lavender, various pastels, and white), to dyed. What could be more feminine than a pink pearl bracelet, after all?

Akoya pearls are generally top of the line and are what everyone thinks of when they think of pearls – white, perfectly round, and with mirror-like luster. They do have some disadvantages, however. Because Akoya pearls are cultured using a beaded nucleus, they tend to have a thinner layer of nacre, which can lead to some wear and tear down the road. Also, even though the term Japanese Akoya pearls used to be an industry standard, today it is no longer considered valid due to the increase in Chinese production of Akoya pearls. One way to distinguish the two is the size – smaller Akoyas are generally Chinese, and sizes greater than 7-8mm are generally from Japan.

The most exotic pearl bracelets are made of Tahitian or South Sea pearls. Watch out though – their uniqueness and high quality may also come with a steep price tag. Tahitians are naturally dark, with various types of metallic overtone and body color combinations. Peacock, black, pistachio, aubergine, and chocolate are all popular colors that guarantee that anyone with a Tahitian pearl bracelet will stand out in a crowd. South Sea pearls are best known for their rich gold, but again, are very rare and expensive.

Pearls add an aura of mystery, elegance, and class to their wearer. Not only that, but a pearl bracelet is extremely feminine. Consider adding one to your jewelry collection – I’m sure you won’t regret it!

I’ve talked about brown pearls before, but in all honesty it’s not just any type of brown that’s garnering publicity lately. So-called “chocolate” Tahitian pearls are a very specific, rare, type of pearl that has come into vogue over the last decade. I thought I’d give you a little more information about these pearls – what to look for, where the color comes from, and who sells them.

Sometime around the year 2000, Ballerina Pearl in New York began to sell chocolate pearls created through a unique treatment process. Truly uniform brown isn’t a natural color – in fact, most brown Tahitians have red or purple overtones – but Ballerina Pearl created this color through a combination of bleach and heat. It is a proprietary process that they maintain preserves the integrity of the pearl without using dye. Basically, the color is stripped to reveal brown underneath. These pearls are in short supply and demand was high, so, naturally, knock-offs began to enter the market in droves. If you want true chocolate pearls watch out – the knock offs are usually dyed using a silver nitrate process in order to mimic the real thing.

It’s not so much dyed freshwater pearls that has the pearl industry upset. Rather, they object to dyeing Tahitians because they are considered a high integrity pearl rather than one that is mass-produced. Jewelers also worry that retailers will price gouge customers without disclosing the true nature of the pearls they carry. If you just want a beautiful chocolate color – stick to freshwater pearls. Irradiating freshwater pearls is easy to do without sacrificing anything.  Dyed chocolate Tahitians lose some of their beautiful luster, whereas the bleached kind are usually extremely high quality.

Now, after the mini-rant/explanation….you’re probably wondering why anyone would choose brown in the first place. It’s not a color that tops many women’s list of favorites, after all. That’s a shame, I think. Brown is a color that suits and flatters many different skin tones and, because it’s a neutral color, can be paired with anything. Fall, with its deep, rich, colors, almost demands that women wear brown! Chocolate pearl necklaces may be just what you’re looking for to achieve that dramatic fall look.

Chocolate freshwater pearls can be found just about anywhere, but where should you go for Tahitians? As far as I know, Ballerina Pearl Co. was the first company to use a bleaching process rather than dye, but I’ve heard that Shanghai Gems may use a similar process. It seems that Ballerina sells most of their pearls to Emiko Pearls in Bellevue, Washington. From there, they are sold to designer Erica Courtney (who provides many celebrities with their red carpet jewelry) and jeweler Paul Johnson in Houston, Texas. As you can see, getting real chocolate pearls is difficult and most likely expensive. That’s why there’s so many dyed pearls on the market.

In short, chocolate pearls are created through a unique bleaching process because a true, uniform brown doesn’t occur in nature. They are rare because there are few companies that distribute them, though if you’re okay with dye, you will have a much easier time buying some of your own. I really don’t have anything against dye, personally, but I do dislike it when retailers aren’t completely honest about their merchandise. As always, buyer beware.

Though pearls in general are a timeless classic, switching things up every now and then can be a fun way to add some spice to your jewelry collection. Changing the color from white to black is one easy way to do this – the exotic flair of black pearls could be just what you need. Though these pearls have become more popular over time, they are still rare enough that you’ll never be lost in the crowd.

Before the pearl industry developed reliable cultivation methods, black pearls were incredibly rare, but since white was in high demand, they were thought to be worthless. The situation is completely different today! Of course, white pearls are still the most common, but the Tahitian pearl industry thrives in large part due to the popularity of their exotically colored pearls. These are rarely a flat black, but often have other overtones and may even shimmer with a rainbow of colors. You’ll definitely be enchanted. The best part is that these pearls are not only unique but also very versatile, as black in general can look wonderful with any outfit!

When it comes to black, there are a couple of options available to you. Naturally black pearls only come from the pinctada margaritifera or black-lipped pearl oyster, found in the South Pacific. This means that you’ll want to look for Tahitian pearls. The other option is to buy some dyed freshwater pearls – these are cheaper, but don’t have the beautiful overtones that Tahitian pearls are best known for.  You also have to be careful; many pearls are dyed because they aren’t high enough quality to stand on their own. Not all, but enough to be wary – look for pearls that have great surface quality, since this will be visible even through the dye.

Buying a black pearl necklace can be a little pricey, especially if you choose Tahitians. However, these pearls look great no matter what form they come in. A single pearl necklace or tin cup necklace can save you money because there are less pearls used. You might also take a look at black pearl earrings – drop pearls can (sometimes) be less expensive, and these earrings make amazing accents for any occasion. Any type of baroque pearl will also look great!

If your goal is to stand out in a crowd and look great no matter which outfit you wear, black pearls are definitely worth considering. Whether Tahitian or dyed freshwater, you’ll find they soon become an essential part of your wardrobe!

If you’ve ever wanted a pearl necklace but didn’t care for the look of classic round pearls, you might want to take a look at baroque pearls instead. ‘Baroque’ in this case simply means that the shape is irregular and asymmetrical. I’ve talked about other shapes before, including coin, keshi, and drop pearls but did you know that those could also be considered baroque? It all depends on how symmetrical they are! Even stick pearls (such as those made famous by Lake Biwa pearl farms) might fall under the baroque category.

Baroque pearls have all the same qualities as their more sought after cousins, and can be very high quality aside from their shape. This means you could get the high luster, good surface quality, and lovely orient (especially in keshis) that you’re looking for, but because these pearls are less desirable, you might end up paying a good deal less for them. They let you inject a little more flair into your jewelry choices and lend themselves well to many types of designs.

Most baroque pearls are freshwater cultured pearls – these, unlike saltwater pearls, are cultivated with a piece of mantle tissue as a nucleus instead of a bead. This cultivation process is less likely to produce perfectly round pearls, but fortunately for you (if you like pearls with a little more character) baroque pearls are easy to come by. Saltwater baroque pearls exist too, but they’re not quite as common. Keshi pearls are a byproduct of the cultivation process and are often either discarded or corrected before the pearl has fully formed. That being said, other types of baroque pearls are available in the Akoya, South Sea, or Tahitian varieties. I’ve heard that as much as forty percent of the Tahitian pearl harvest is baroque!

Drop pearls, which can also be considered baroque, are often used in earrings and single pearl necklaces. Coin pearl necklaces are quite popular with young women because they add a more feminine touch. Finally, keshi pearls can be used as accents or combined to make roses or even more fanciful shapes. Keshis also tend to have absolutely incredible orient so I’m definitely a fan!

Overall, irregularly shaped baroque pearls have a lot of character and their variety means you’ll be sure to find something you like. Not to mention, you could save some money! Thinking outside of the box can have its rewards now and then.

Drop pearls are another unique type of pearl categorized by their shape (much like coin and rice pearls). Rather than being completely round or spherical, these may be either pear or teardrop shaped, depending in part on their origin. The ‘drop’ part of the pearl may be long or it may be on the shorter side but these pearls are always symmetrical, which is a huge part of their appeal. I personally like the ones that look like raindrops.

So what types of drop pearls are available? Truth be told, most of the drop pearls on the market today are freshwater. This isn’t a bad thing – freshwater pearls come in many colors, and can be easily dyed to produce rare (brown for example) or nearly impossible colors – think deep purple or cranberry red. Not only that, but freshwater pearls are widely available and of comparable quality to their saltwater counterparts.

You can also find both Tahitian and South Sea drop pearls, with Tahitian being slightly easier to find (and possibly less expensive too!). Most of the Tahitian drop pearls I’ve seen online are in peacock – however, Tahitians come in so many different colors that with a little searching you may be able to find others.

I’ve heard of baroque Akoyas that are close to drop pearls, but was unable to find any when I looked. Generally speaking, the quality control on Akoya pearls is strict enough that there may be very few drop pearls on the market.

Drop pearls are most often found in earrings or pendants (try looking for a single pearl necklace if nothing turns up when you search for pendants). Traditional pearl strands made entirely of drop pearls are harder to find but they do exist and seem to mostly consist of Tahitians. You might also try looking for a floating pearl or tin cup necklace made entirely of drop pearls for a very unique look. No matter what you choose, these pearls really bring attention to your face and will help you stand out from the crowd.

While it may be easier to find round pearls due to their popularity and value, shopping online makes things much easier. The downside is that some online retailers make false claims so it can be hard to know who you can trust. Here are some reputable companies that carry drop pearls:

• Pearl Paradise
• Pure Pearls
• The Pearl Outlet
• Pearls of Joy

Good luck finding the right pearls for you!

(I’m not affiliated with the above retailers but I have seen them discussed around the web. Generally all four sites have a very good reputation but as always, exercise caution!)

South Sea pearls are a great addition to anyone’s collection. Their warm colors, large size, and thick nacre make them both unique and durable. If you want a gold pearl, South Sea is the way to go! Here’s a little more information about these spectacular pearls.

South Sea pearls are harvested from the pinctada maxima oyster, found throughout the Indian and Pacific Oceans, and are known for their warm overtones and colors that rarely occur in other pearl types. These pearls are mainly produced in Australia, the Phillippines, Indonesia, and Myanmar.

These pearls are among the largest cultured pearls in the world, for reasons that I’ll explain in a minute. You may recall that an average pearl is about 7-8mm with some types, such as Akoya, running a little smaller. South Sea pearls, on the other hand, are somewhere between 9mm-20mm! The smallest South Sea pearl is larger than the average Akoya and the average (at 13mm) is nearly twice as large.

One reason for their incredible size is the size of the oyster itself. Pinctada maxima oysters can grow up to 12 inches in diameter so they can handle a larger nucleus. These pearls are also left to grow for a relatively long time – a minimum of 2 years before being harvested. Finally, the warm and clean waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans are conducive to quick nacre growth so they are able to grow larger, more quickly. This is also a reason for their unusually average nacre thickness of 2-6mm. (For reference, the nacre in Akoyas is usually .35-.7mm thick.)

There are two varieties of the pinctada maxima, gold-lipped and silver-lipped. As the names imply, each type tends to produce either gold or white pearls. As I mentioned earlier, the colors that occur naturally in South Sea pearls tend to be very rare or impossible in other pearl types. These colors include gold, champagne (pale gold), blue with silver overtones, pink, or even pale green, and of course white. South Sea pearls are also known for their soft, satiny luster. The most valuable and sought after color is a deep, warm, gold.

As a consumer, there are several things you should watch out for when you buy these pearls. First of all, many retailers use terminology that is misleading or inaccurate. For example, “Baby South Sea” pearls are not South Sea. They are often freshwaters. Nor are “Tahitian South Sea” pearls South Sea. They are two completely different types of pearls from two different types of oysters! The same goes for “Black South Sea” pearls – those are Taitians because they come from the pinctada margaritifera, or black-lipped, oyster. Please avoid any retailer, on- or offline, that uses those terms. Most likely they either don’t know what they are talking about or are trying to mislead their customers.

South Sea pearls on the whole are the most expensive because they are so large, have so much nacre, and are relatively rare. Their warm and unusual colors and satiny luster make them standout choices for anyone’s pearl necklace.

Keshi (or keishi) pearls are a unique by-product of the pearl cultivation process in which the oyster, for some reason, rejects the implanted nucleus and a pearl develops anyway. Far from being unsellable, low quality rejects, keshis are very beautiful and a worthy addition to any pearl aficionado’s collection. Let me explain.

Keshi means “poppy seed” in Japanese, and that is a reasonable description of their shape. These pearls are generally very small (though large ones do exist) and because they have no nucleus, their shapes are highly irregular. Their lack of a nucleus is important for a couple reasons.

First, keshi pearls are all nacre (one caveat here: they are all nacre, but their lack of a nucleus means they can very rarely be hollow). This makes them similar to natural pearls but it’s important to know that they are not a natural product. Keshis occur as an accidental byproduct of cultivation, therefore they are man-made and must be described as such.

Second, because keshis have such a thick layer of nacre, they often display an absolutely incredible amount of orient. Orient could also be described as iridescence, but keshis often go beyond that, with colors that play both across the surface and within the depth of the pearl. You really have to see the way they shimmer to believe it!

Generally speaking, the term keshi is only used to describe saltwater pearls. This may be because cultured Akoya pearls produced the first keshis so for a long time they dominated the market. Supposedly there is a movement to legislate this but at this time it is unregulated. Freshwater keshi pearls also exist – they are produced by the same process – and in fact, as far as the Japanese are concerned keshi can refer to either saltwater or freshwater pearls.

These pearls used to be very inexpensive. However, producers of South Sea and Tahitian pearls have begun x-raying their oysters. Through these x-rays, they are able to see whether or not an oyster is rejecting the nucleation process and if so, re-nucleating it. This means that keshis from those regions are becoming more and more scarce, and ever more expensive.

If you would like your own pearl necklace made of keshis, Akoya and freshwater are probably the way to go – they are the least expensive and still generally have a very high orient. Freshwater pearls also occur in so many colors that you are guaranteed a wide selection. However, if you can find Tahitian or South Sea keshi pearls for a reasonable price you will be absolutely amazed at how beautiful they really are. Good luck in your search!

Classic pearl necklaces are a wardrobe essential, but every now and then you need a change. Not every occasion calls for the formality some pearl necklaces can project; some people also have negative associations regarding pearl necklaces and believe that they can look old-fashioned or just make you look older than you are. Coin pearls are a great alternative for whenever you might want to seem youthful and modern; they are also considered one of the more feminine shapes, and are widely available.

Coin pearls are part of a group of pearls that are classified by their shape. (Others include baroque, drop, and rice pearls.) Like the name suggests, coin pearls are cultivated in the shape of coins so that they are round but flat with soft edges. These are usually freshwater pearls so there are a wide array of colors available; however coin pearls are most often white.

Coin pearls have become very popular with young women today, which means that if you would like a coin pearl necklace you will have plenty of options! I believe their appeal stems from the fact that they are modern, project a fresh, youthful vibe, and avoid some of the stereotypes associated with pearl strands. Unlike traditional pearl necklaces, no one says that coin pearl necklaces can’t be worn by younger women or teens. If you ever feel that traditional necklaces age or date you, coin pearls may work very well as an alternative. They also make great earrings for much the same reasons I listed above.

In fact, coin pearl necklaces are a good choice for many different occasions, with some caveats. First of all, they tend to project femininity rather than power so keep that in mind. You may not want to wear coin pearls when you are heading up a business meeting depending on what image you are trying to project. Also, these pearl necklaces are very delicate in appearance so you don’t want to pair them with clothes that may overwhelm them (so stay away from clothes that are too bold when wearing this type of pearls). However, these pearls are wonderful any time you want to look feminine and modern, so keep them in mind for weddings, dates, or feminine, romantic attire.

Though you might not want to wear them everywhere, it’s definitely worth keeping some coin pearls in your collection. They are unique, modern, feminine, and most of all, they’ll make you stand out in a crowd.

If you want a pearl necklace but want a more exotic color than white, peacock pearls may be just what you’re looking for. These beautiful Tahitian pearls are highly sought after because not only are they unique, but they also have the ability to pair well with and even enhance any outfit. Dyed freshwater pearls can also be found in peacock; both types are gorgeous and are available in a variety of shapes.

Peacock pearls are a greenish-black type of Tahitian pearl. In fact, they are one of the most popular and valuable colors, right behind black. However, they may also be blue gray with a rose to purple overtone (much like a real peacock feather, which has a rainbow of colors). These pearls are often found in unusual shapes; the most common type is ringed, or circled. Drop pearls are also fairly common. Baroque pearls such as these offer a lovely, unconventional charm – that’s why they continue to be so popular even though they may not be the most “valuable.”

There are freshwater peacock pearls too – these are dyed and don’t have quite the same effect but will be must less expensive. Just be aware that some less trustworthy merchants may try to pass off their dyed freshwater pearls as genuine Tahitian peacock pearls. Be wary, and if you can see the pearls in person look for overtones such as rose, purple, or gray. You can also take a look at the luster of the pearls; freshwaters will appear creamier and less metallic, and may appear flatter due to the dye. They also may lack the brilliant orient that is present in Tahitians.

Because peacock is one of the most valuable colors, you might find yourself paying a considerable amount for a well matched pearl necklace. If you would like some less expensive alternatives, you might want to consider choosing peacock pearls for earrings, a single pearl necklace, a ring, or a floating pearl (tin cup) necklace. Freshwater pearls can also be very affordable and beautiful if make sure to buy quality. Also don’t pass up the opportunity to wear some lovely baroque pearls!

When it comes to saltwater pearls, Akoya embodies the traditional pearl necklace better than any other. These pearls are some of the most highly regarded in the world and with reason. However, there are some things you should know before you buy.

Akoya pearls are known for their high luster and their consistently round shape. In fact, they are the epitome of the classic pearl. They are usually white or cream with rose, silver, or ivory overtones – perfect for necklaces, which is they have been so popular. This type of pearls is usually on the smaller side of the spectrum with an average size of 2-11mm.

Akoya pearls were first cultivated by Kokichi Mikimoto in the 1920s and for many many years they were a purely Japanese product.  These days, things are changing and Akoya pearls are now being farmed in other countries such as South Korea, Vietnam, Australia and China. In fact, China is now Japan’s main competitor and the quality of their pearls is getting better all the time.

As a consumer it’s great to have options, but this has caused a lot of problems for struggling Japanese pearl farms. Their solution has been to import pearls from China and string them together with Japanese pearls so that they can be labeled a Japanese product. Though each hank of pearls is inspected to maintain high quality standards, the truth is that many Akoya pearl necklaces contain a mix of pearls from various countries.

This practice has made the term ‘Japanese Akoya pearls’ obsolete and in fact it is no longer allowed as an industry standard term. Retailers don’t have control over what they get either – most are honest and will tell you the origin if you ask but some will guarantee 100% Japanese Akoya pearls and this is false. Japanese pearl farms sell only to factories, not to retailers, so there is no real way to know.

Regardless of origin, Akoya pearls are highly regarded. The competition in the industry, while leading to some ‘interesting’ practices really means that in terms of quality the consumer wins. One clue to look for – Japanese farms focus on the larger end of the size scale while Chinese generally produce smaller pearls so that’s one way to differentiate between the two.

Though every Akoya is beautiful, there is one more level of quality within Akoya, called Hanadama. Hanadama pearls are the absolute cream of the crop and must undergo certification by the Pearl Science Laboratory of Japan before they can be designated as Hanadama. The qualifications are as follows:

• The nacre depth must be greater than .40 mm on any tested pearl – pearls within a strand are tested at random.
• The luster analysis (what is called the teri-value) analysis must be very strong.
• Analysis should slow only very slight imperfections.

There are no pearls with a perfect surface and the Pearl Science Laboratory never gives out a zero imperfection grade. This is because each pearl is unique and as an organic gem are guaranteed to be imperfect. However imperfections in Hanadama will be very hard to spot and they may even seem absolutely perfect without rigorous testing.

One very important thing to keep in mind when buying Hanadama is that the certificate must accompany the strand for it to be genuine. Also, these pearls are the best of the best out of each Akoya harvest so if someone claims to sell pearls that are “better than Hanadama” don’t fall for it! It’s just not possible. If they really were better they would have made the grade!

If you don’t know where to start when you’re looking for a pearl necklace, Akoyas are a very good choice because they are considered the classic pearl. However, you do need to keep in mind that there will most likely be a mix of Chinese and Japanese pearls on any given strand so don’t be fooled. Also keep in mind what to look for if you want Hanadama pearls. I hope this helps and good luck!