Jewelry Care

Overview

Simulated pearls have existed for over a thousand years. In fact, evidence suggests that people have been trying to produce imitation pearls since approximately 83 A.D. That’s when Chinese Philosopher Wang Chhung (or Wang Ch’ung) recorded his thoughts on how heating, proper timing, and the right mix of chemicals could be combined to form pearls that were quite close to the real thing. At the time, natural pearls were so rare and valuable that they were exorbitantly expensive. In fact, pearls were worth more than gold in many parts of the world, so it’s only natural that people would want to imitate the beauty of genuine pearls.

Experiments continued throughout the years with few mentions of imitation pearls. The Venetians discovered a method by which they could create beautiful iridescent glass in the 16th century, but the industry did not take off until finally a man named Jacquin discovered that the shimmer of fish scales could be used to create a substance known as “pearlessence” or “essence d’orient.” He was able to create simulated pearls by coating glass beads with essence d’orient and then filling them with wax. Unfortunately, getting the materials for pearlessence required harvesting scales from thousands of fish. These days, many faux pearls use other methods. For example, some manufacturers use plastic beads instead of glass. Also, while some companies still use pearlessence, others cover their beads in pearl film.

There’s nothing wrong with simulated pearls; in fact, well-made versions can be quite pretty. It can be helpful to know the different types on the market so that you know whether your pearls are real or not, however.

Types

If you are shopping for simulated pearls, you should look for strands that are labeled fake, faux, simulated, artificial, imitation, or man-made. Manufacturers and retailers are supposed to disclose this information, but unfortunately this doesn’t always happen. There are specific brands/types that are always artificial, including:

• Red Sea
• Laguna
• Mallorca/Majorica/Majorca
• LaTausca
• Shell (a specific type of artificial pearl)
• Pearlfection (more about them below)
• Mayoka (this might be the same as Majorca)
• Misaki
• Swarovski (these are made of glass beads and are generally high quality in comparison to others)

Pearlfection has, in the past, been promoted in such a way that consumers might be confused. I’m not sure if this is on the company’s shoulders, or on the retailers/programs that promote them (QVC, etc). However, some of the claims I’ve heard are that these pearls are as much as 98% real, they are not imitation, their black pearls are from the Pinctada Margaritefera oyster (that produces black Tahitian pearls), a jeweler would not be able to tell whether their strand was real or not, and black is a natural color in Akoya pearls. Now, please be aware that none of these claims are true! Pearlfections pearls are indeed simulated.

Tests

What if you aren’t sure of the authenticity of your strand of pearls? Do you know how to tell the difference between real and fake pearls? Here are six common tests:

• The tooth test. This one is something that many people in the industry swear by. To perform this test, run a pearl over your teeth (lightly!). Natural pearls should have a gritty feel, whereas simulated pearls should feel relatively smooth. The problem with this test is that cultured pearls tend to feel nearly as smooth as their man-made cousins. Basically, if your pearl(s) feel gritty, you’ve most likely got naturals; if they feel smooth, move on to another test.

• Magnification. Under close inspection, real pearls should have ridges, grooves, or other surface imperfections. Simulated pearls are designed to be perfectly smooth. You should also inspect the drill holes carefully. The drill hole of a fake pearl will probably be ragged and uneven; you might even see some dye peeling around the edges.

• Sunlight. Take your pearls out and look at them in the sun. Real pearls have more depth (due to the nacre) and color variation. Simulated pearls tend to have very little shine when compared to the real thing. They also lack that “inner glow” that pearls with very high luster possess. If you have a pearl necklace, take a look at several pearls in the same strand. Do they match exactly? If the colors are exactly the same, with little to no variation, chances are that your pearls are man-made.

• Density. This one can be a bit tricky. In general, real pearls will feel heavier than simulated ones. High-quality artificial pearls may feel just like real pearls, unfortunately.

• X-ray. If you’re willing to pay an expert to x-ray your pearls, this is the best test of all. An x-ray can tell you several things: whether your pearls are real, whether they are natural or cultured, and whether they have been dyed. This can be a bit expensive but is well worth the cost if you have any doubt.

• Destructive tests. This category includes tests that most people wouldn’t care to perform. For example, you could try cutting your pearls open to see what the core looks like. Alternatively, you could try heat, water, or one of several other tests that involve destroying your pearls. If you want to try one of these in the name of science, go for it – but don’t try these if you want to wear your pearls ever again.

Care

Simulated pearls are more durable than natural ones in some ways, and less so in others. On the whole, caring for simulated pearls is relatively easy. Like real pearls, make sure that you avoid acids or body oils. Although these babies can handle a bit of heat, cooking with them might not be the best idea. Unlike the real thing, man-made pearls can handle some light cleansers, so be sure to clean them every so often with a soft cloth. One thing that you should watch out for – the outer layers of dye or coating may occasionally peel or scratch off. Low-quality strands may be especially susceptible to this type of damage. To keep your necklace (or other type of jewelry) looking great, store in a bag or jewelry box away from things that might scratch.

Simulated, man-made, artificial – they all mean the same thing. Although these pearls are not real, sometimes they can be well worth the purchase. Just make sure that you know what you’re getting before you buy!

Pearl rings are an absolutely gorgeous alternative to diamonds. They don’t sparkle in the sunlight; instead, they quietly glow with their own inner light. However, because they are constantly exposed to the world, they can be more difficult to take care of than a pearl necklace. If you know what to do before you buy, take care of your pearl ring while wearing it, and prepare for the future, you’ll save yourself some heartache later on.

One of the things you can do to extend the life of your pearl ring is to choose the right setting before you buy. You’re looking for a setting that will hold the pearl securely while still protecting it from scraping against the setting itself as well as any other rough surface it may encounter. There are basically two choices that outshine the rest. The first, a bezel, is a simple setting made of a metal band wrapped around the pearl to hold it in place. Although one of the most simple and versatile settings, a bezel does have some drawbacks. No matter how careful you are, at some point (though possibly decades in the future) your pearl will need to be replaced. A bezel setting makes this slightly more difficult, because the setting itself will need to be bent back and then repaired after the original pearl has been replaced.  The other type of setting that works well with pearls is a simple cup, as long as the pearl is securely affixed.

Taking care of pearls is easy as long as you know the rules. Pearls are damaged by heat, acidity, and body oil. They are also one of the softest gems so pearls can be scratched very easily. You have to make sure not to wear your ring while cleaning so that your pearl isn’t damaged by chemicals, avoid cooking with your ring on so that heat isn’t an issue, and be highly aware of your surroundings. If your job means you work with your hands often, the safest way to protect your ring is to leave it at home.

As I mentioned earlier, pearls will suffer enough damage over time that they will eventually need to be replaced. This happens with necklaces too but rings, which come into contact with damaging surfaces and materials more often, will need to be replaced much sooner. Planning for the future is absolutely necessary. Many retailers, both online and brick-and-mortar, let customers pick the pearl and setting separately. If you have a particular type of pearl you’d like, it might be a good idea to buy more than one so that eventual replacement goes smoothly. Also be sure to discuss which setting would be the best before you buy, as pearl experts may have some insights which I haven’t been able to cover here.

Though all of this may seem complicated, being aware of what it takes to keep your pearl looking beautiful will pay off in the end. Your reward will be a unique ring that brings with it a mystical beauty and sparkling inner light.

Pearl rings are absolutely stunning in the right setting. The best thing about pearls, in my opinion, is that they enhance rather than overpower the beauty of their wearer – and that’s exactly as it should be. However, as much as I love them, I have to admit that pearl rings do have some disadvantages when compared to other gems. This shouldn’t stop you from buying one if you truly love pearls, but it’s wise to be fully informed before you make your purchase. There are ways to negate or compensate for all of the negatives.

Interestingly enough, even though pearls in general are less expensive than, say, diamonds, pearl rings can be much more expensive because they are fragile and therefore difficult to set. It’s important to choose the right setting so that your initial expense won’t go to waste. There are two options that are generally considered safe for pearls: a bezel or a cup. Bezel settings will hold your pearl securely in place; however, you may find that this is a drawback if you need to replace the pearl down the road (and you most likely will). A cup will make replacement easier but you need to make sure that it has a secure grip. If you buy online, reputable dealers will often show pictures of their pearls and/or settings to buyers on request, and will also offer advice. Don’t hesitate to ask them for more information! This applies to brick-and-mortar jewelers as well.

While a pearl necklace can be worn everyday with little risk, rings and bracelets are much more likely to suffer from daily wear and tear. If you work with your hands, please don’t wear your ring to work! Pearls are between 2.5-4.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, meaning they are fairly delicate. While they won’t actually break or crack easily, they will scratch and scuff if you bump them. To minimize damage simply be careful, take them off by handling only the metal part of the ring, and avoid cleansers or chemicals. Pearls also tend to take on a more gold or creamy color as they age – there is nothing you can do about this, unfortunately.

I hope the disadvantages don’t discourage you too much. I really do love pearl rings! As I       mentioned above, I like them more than diamonds. If I were to buy a ring, I would make sure to choose a type of pearl with a thicker layer of nacre so that the pearl won’t be so quickly damaged. This means choosing freshwater (because they are all nacre), Tahitian, or South Sea pearls. I don’t necessarily recommend Akoya for these because they aren’t as durable and are more expensive. I would also get more than one pearl for your ring so that you can replace the original when you need to. Finally, remember that many retailers will sell you the pearl and ring setting separately so you can hunt down the perfect combination for you.

photo credit: NATALIA PHOTOS

A while back I explained how to care for pearls, which is important because they are fairly delicate gems. But what about simulated pearls? You would think that fake pearls would be much easier to store and clean but in fact many of the same rules apply, especially to Swarovski simulated pearls because they are very high quality and in many ways similar to the real thing.

Just like a regular pearl necklace, fake (or faux, or simulated) pearls should be put on last. Get dressed, put on makeup, perfume, etc. and then put on your simulated pearls. This is to avoid damaging the surface with acids/oils from your body or perfume. They should also be the first thing you remove. Just like natural pearls – “last on, first off” is the rule to remember.

It’s not as important to keep your simulated pearls away from heat or sunlight as it is with genuine pearls but I still wouldn’t cook with them or keep them on any longer than you really need to. That way they will look beautiful for quite some time.

When it comes to cleaning, again, you should be very careful with your artificial pearls. Unlike real pearls, they can handle a very small amount of (very) gentle detergent. However, it really is best to just buff them with a soft dry cloth as often as you can and save the cleaners for when they get extremely dirty.

Don’t store your necklace hanging up if at all possible, for the same reasons you want to avoid doing so with real pearls. You don’t want to damage the thread and have to restring or replace the necklace any sooner than you have to, right? Other than that, if you store your pearls in a jewelry box try to keep them separate or, ideally, store them in a soft cloth bag. As I mentioned earlier, Swarovski simulated pearls are quite high quality but some other faux necklaces may not be as durable and you want to keep them from getting scratched.

That’s really all you need to know here. Just follow the “last on, first off” rule to keep the finish of your necklace from getting damaged; try to avoid extreme heat though a little is okay; clean gently with a soft cloth or gentle cleaner; and, finally, store your artificial pearls by themselves in a jewelry box or in a soft bag to protect them. Sounds complicated but it’s really easy!