Archive for January, 2011

Overview

Simulated pearls have existed for over a thousand years. In fact, evidence suggests that people have been trying to produce imitation pearls since approximately 83 A.D. That’s when Chinese Philosopher Wang Chhung (or Wang Ch’ung) recorded his thoughts on how heating, proper timing, and the right mix of chemicals could be combined to form pearls that were quite close to the real thing. At the time, natural pearls were so rare and valuable that they were exorbitantly expensive. In fact, pearls were worth more than gold in many parts of the world, so it’s only natural that people would want to imitate the beauty of genuine pearls.

Experiments continued throughout the years with few mentions of imitation pearls. The Venetians discovered a method by which they could create beautiful iridescent glass in the 16th century, but the industry did not take off until finally a man named Jacquin discovered that the shimmer of fish scales could be used to create a substance known as “pearlessence” or “essence d’orient.” He was able to create simulated pearls by coating glass beads with essence d’orient and then filling them with wax. Unfortunately, getting the materials for pearlessence required harvesting scales from thousands of fish. These days, many faux pearls use other methods. For example, some manufacturers use plastic beads instead of glass. Also, while some companies still use pearlessence, others cover their beads in pearl film.

There’s nothing wrong with simulated pearls; in fact, well-made versions can be quite pretty. It can be helpful to know the different types on the market so that you know whether your pearls are real or not, however.

Types

If you are shopping for simulated pearls, you should look for strands that are labeled fake, faux, simulated, artificial, imitation, or man-made. Manufacturers and retailers are supposed to disclose this information, but unfortunately this doesn’t always happen. There are specific brands/types that are always artificial, including:

• Red Sea
• Laguna
• Mallorca/Majorica/Majorca
• LaTausca
• Shell (a specific type of artificial pearl)
• Pearlfection (more about them below)
• Mayoka (this might be the same as Majorca)
• Misaki
• Swarovski (these are made of glass beads and are generally high quality in comparison to others)

Pearlfection has, in the past, been promoted in such a way that consumers might be confused. I’m not sure if this is on the company’s shoulders, or on the retailers/programs that promote them (QVC, etc). However, some of the claims I’ve heard are that these pearls are as much as 98% real, they are not imitation, their black pearls are from the Pinctada Margaritefera oyster (that produces black Tahitian pearls), a jeweler would not be able to tell whether their strand was real or not, and black is a natural color in Akoya pearls. Now, please be aware that none of these claims are true! Pearlfections pearls are indeed simulated.

Tests

What if you aren’t sure of the authenticity of your strand of pearls? Do you know how to tell the difference between real and fake pearls? Here are six common tests:

• The tooth test. This one is something that many people in the industry swear by. To perform this test, run a pearl over your teeth (lightly!). Natural pearls should have a gritty feel, whereas simulated pearls should feel relatively smooth. The problem with this test is that cultured pearls tend to feel nearly as smooth as their man-made cousins. Basically, if your pearl(s) feel gritty, you’ve most likely got naturals; if they feel smooth, move on to another test.

• Magnification. Under close inspection, real pearls should have ridges, grooves, or other surface imperfections. Simulated pearls are designed to be perfectly smooth. You should also inspect the drill holes carefully. The drill hole of a fake pearl will probably be ragged and uneven; you might even see some dye peeling around the edges.

• Sunlight. Take your pearls out and look at them in the sun. Real pearls have more depth (due to the nacre) and color variation. Simulated pearls tend to have very little shine when compared to the real thing. They also lack that “inner glow” that pearls with very high luster possess. If you have a pearl necklace, take a look at several pearls in the same strand. Do they match exactly? If the colors are exactly the same, with little to no variation, chances are that your pearls are man-made.

• Density. This one can be a bit tricky. In general, real pearls will feel heavier than simulated ones. High-quality artificial pearls may feel just like real pearls, unfortunately.

• X-ray. If you’re willing to pay an expert to x-ray your pearls, this is the best test of all. An x-ray can tell you several things: whether your pearls are real, whether they are natural or cultured, and whether they have been dyed. This can be a bit expensive but is well worth the cost if you have any doubt.

• Destructive tests. This category includes tests that most people wouldn’t care to perform. For example, you could try cutting your pearls open to see what the core looks like. Alternatively, you could try heat, water, or one of several other tests that involve destroying your pearls. If you want to try one of these in the name of science, go for it – but don’t try these if you want to wear your pearls ever again.

Care

Simulated pearls are more durable than natural ones in some ways, and less so in others. On the whole, caring for simulated pearls is relatively easy. Like real pearls, make sure that you avoid acids or body oils. Although these babies can handle a bit of heat, cooking with them might not be the best idea. Unlike the real thing, man-made pearls can handle some light cleansers, so be sure to clean them every so often with a soft cloth. One thing that you should watch out for – the outer layers of dye or coating may occasionally peel or scratch off. Low-quality strands may be especially susceptible to this type of damage. To keep your necklace (or other type of jewelry) looking great, store in a bag or jewelry box away from things that might scratch.

Simulated, man-made, artificial – they all mean the same thing. Although these pearls are not real, sometimes they can be well worth the purchase. Just make sure that you know what you’re getting before you buy!

South Sea pearls are best known for their warm gold color. Although these pearls can also be found in champagne, silvery blue, or even pink, the golden pearl is the most popular. I’ve heard that these pearls are more rare than other types; I’m not sure this is true, but I do know that South Sea pearls are the largest pearls in the world. Their beautiful color, thick nacre, and satiny luster make these pearls a good investment for any pearl aficionado.

Golden pearls come from pearl farms in Indonesia, Australia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. The clean, warm waters of the South Seas are home to the Pinctada Maxima oyster – the largest in the world. The oyster’s size allows pearls to grow as large as 9-20mm, with an average nacre thickness of 2-6mm. The thick nacre makes these pearls more lustrous; it also makes them slightly more durable than other saltwater pearls, particularly Akoyas.

So how much should you expect to pay for a golden pearl necklace? The answer will depend on the retailer and the quality of the pearls. A necklace made out of AAA (the highest quality) South Sea pearls may cost as much as $7,000; however, you might be able to find less expensive necklaces if you are willing to settle for lower quality pearls. Alternatively, try looking for a single pearl necklace, bracelet, or floating pearl necklace.

Before you start shopping, you should know some of the common pitfalls to avoid when buying pearls online. First of all, pearls are graded from A to AAA+. You should not buy pearls from any company that claims to sell AAAA pearls, as they will often inflate the price due to their perceived higher quality pearls. Some retailers might also claim to sell “baby South Sea” pearls. More often than not, these are freshwater pearls that have been dyed or treated to obtain their lovely gold color. I wouldn’t assume that all companies that sell these pearls are trying to scam their customers, but it is a red flag. Finally, be aware that “Tahitian South Sea pearls” is a bit of a misnomer as well. Pearls are either Tahitian or South Sea – not both.

A golden pearl necklace made out of genuine South Sea pearls can be well worth the high price tag. Make sure to shop around and consider other styles before you make a final decision, however!

The most traditional and classic type of pearl necklace is either pure white or cream. Although those colors are popular for good reason, if you want a more modern, edgy look you might try getting a colored pearl necklace instead. Fortunately, there are so many types of pearls that you’ll have a wide range of colors to choose from. Exotic Tahitian pearls, golden South Sea pearls, and cultured pink pearls are just some of the many choices available.

Tahitian pearls are known for their metallic colors, wonderful orient, and interesting ringed shape. If you want a black pearl necklace, these are the pearls for you! This type of pearl is also available in peacock (black/grey/green), aubergine (eggplant), bronze, and pistachio. Recent years have also seen the rise of the Tahitian chocolate pearl, a color made possible by a unique bleach and heat treatment process. These pearls are slightly more expensive, but always high quality.

South Sea pearls are not only the largest and most expensive pearls, but also the only pearls available in gold. These pearls tend to have a much softer, almost creamy luster when compared to Akoya pearls – something you’ll notice if you ever get the chance to compare white Akoya and South Sea pearls side by side. South Sea pearls have a thick nacre due partly to their size and partly to the strict quality imposed on them by the government.

Finally, freshwater pearls are the cheapest and most widely available option for colored pearls. Most freshwater pearls these days come from China but at one point the United States also had a thriving pearl industry. Because these pearls are mass-produced, you can expect to pay much less for them than for Akoya pearls of equivalent quality. Chinese pearl farms are constantly improving their technique, quality, and color selection.

Believe it or not, pink, lavender, bronze, and light green are all natural colors for freshwater pearls. This variety can also be dyed easily, so if you are looking for blue, deep purple, red, or any other color, you can be sure to find a colored pearl necklace to your liking.

I should note that other types of pearls are dyed as well, but many people in the industry feel that doing so is a waste and destroys the integrity and quality that many saltwater pearls are known for. You should also know that some companies will sell freshwater peacock pearls without mentioning that they are dyed. Before buying anything online, make sure to take a close look at the fine print! If you educate yourself and know exactly what you want, you’ll be able to find the perfect colored pearl necklace for you.