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Archive for June, 2010

Purple Pearls: Rare Beauties

June 25, 2010 by

For centuries purple has been the color of royalty, mystery, and magic. It seems that pearls, with their inner glow and aura of mystery, would be perfect in purple, but, unfortunately for those of us who like the color, purple pearls are incredibly difficult to find and often very expensive. Even if you do find one, they can be difficult to sell. Why? The answer is that there are only two varieties and of those, one is a clam that only rarely produces pearls. Let me explain a little more…

The first type of purple pearl comes from the Quahog clam found off the coast of the Eastern United States. These clams have a brilliant purple shell, so the pearls they produce are also a beautiful purple color. In fact, it was this particular clam that Native Americans used to make wampum, then used as a type of currency.  Many years ago it wasn’t uncommon for people to find pearls while shucking clams or even eating them (and it happened within the last decade too) but the increased mechanization of the shucking process means these pearls are probably being crushed or discarded before anyone gets the chance to find them. This means that they are incredibly rare and valuable. However, because there isn’t a market for them at the moment they are also very hard to sell. On top of that, Quahog pearls are brittle and hard to drill. If you should find one or wish to buy one, the safest place to keep it may be in a bottle.

While you may not be able to find natural pearls in quite the same shade as the beautiful Quahog pearls, freshwaters are available in lavender. They don’t have to be dyed – lavender is just one of their many natural colors (others being pink, peach, or white, for example). Otherwise, if you would like more traditional, rich purple colors, the only option is dye. Just remember to be careful when buying dyed pearls because it is often the lower quality ones that are dyed. Make sure that, at the least, they have a blemish-free surface and decent luster.

While many of us wish that deep purple pearls were more common, the truth is that Quahog pearls are unlikely to ever be mass-produced, leaving lavender freshwaters or dyed pearls as the only other options.  Not that I dislike freshwaters! They’re gorgeous, and because their lavender occurs naturally, and their nacre is so thick, they will be very durable. Even dyed pearls can look gorgeous if you do a little searching and make sure to double check their quality.  The bottom line: if you want a purple pearl necklace, it’s out there for you somewhere!

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Pearl rings are absolutely stunning in the right setting. The best thing about pearls, in my opinion, is that they enhance rather than overpower the beauty of their wearer – and that’s exactly as it should be. However, as much as I love them, I have to admit that pearl rings do have some disadvantages when compared to other gems. This shouldn’t stop you from buying one if you truly love pearls, but it’s wise to be fully informed before you make your purchase. There are ways to negate or compensate for all of the negatives.

Interestingly enough, even though pearls in general are less expensive than, say, diamonds, pearl rings can be much more expensive because they are fragile and therefore difficult to set. It’s important to choose the right setting so that your initial expense won’t go to waste. There are two options that are generally considered safe for pearls: a bezel or a cup. Bezel settings will hold your pearl securely in place; however, you may find that this is a drawback if you need to replace the pearl down the road (and you most likely will). A cup will make replacement easier but you need to make sure that it has a secure grip. If you buy online, reputable dealers will often show pictures of their pearls and/or settings to buyers on request, and will also offer advice. Don’t hesitate to ask them for more information! This applies to brick-and-mortar jewelers as well.

While a pearl necklace can be worn everyday with little risk, rings and bracelets are much more likely to suffer from daily wear and tear. If you work with your hands, please don’t wear your ring to work! Pearls are between 2.5-4.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, meaning they are fairly delicate. While they won’t actually break or crack easily, they will scratch and scuff if you bump them. To minimize damage simply be careful, take them off by handling only the metal part of the ring, and avoid cleansers or chemicals. Pearls also tend to take on a more gold or creamy color as they age – there is nothing you can do about this, unfortunately.

I hope the disadvantages don’t discourage you too much. I really do love pearl rings! As I       mentioned above, I like them more than diamonds. If I were to buy a ring, I would make sure to choose a type of pearl with a thicker layer of nacre so that the pearl won’t be so quickly damaged. This means choosing freshwater (because they are all nacre), Tahitian, or South Sea pearls. I don’t necessarily recommend Akoya for these because they aren’t as durable and are more expensive. I would also get more than one pearl for your ring so that you can replace the original when you need to. Finally, remember that many retailers will sell you the pearl and ring setting separately so you can hunt down the perfect combination for you.

photo credit: NATALIA PHOTOS

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White pearls are unquestionably beautiful – at their best, they glow with an inner light that enhances any woman’s beauty. Of course, though white may be the most sought after color, there are plenty of other colors out there. Pink, for example, has been the “girl’s color” for ages, and with good reason – pink flatters nearly anyone’s skin tone and brings to mind the soft colors of roses. While not necessarily the best choice for someone who doesn’t want to seem like a delicate flower, cultured pink pearls make a wonderful gift. The best part is that pink can be a naturally occurring color! Intrigued yet?

There are many types of pearls on the market these days, and more than of a few them come in pink. However, freshwater pearls are, in my opinion, your best choice. Why? Not only are they more affordable than Akoya or South Sea pearls, but they don’t have to be dyed or treated in any way to achieve the pastels they are most known for. That’s right – pink, peach, and lavender are all natural colors. This is important to take into consideration because dyed or treated pearls are often, but not always, less durable than those that haven’t been treated. Common problems include dye chipping or flaking; sometimes dye is visible around the drill holes.

Akoya and South Sea Pearls, though not available in a true pink, do have pearls with rose overtones available. The body color is white, however, making these a very popular choice for brides. The upside is that the rose overtones make the pearls seem less cold when compared to the pure white versions. The downside – as far as I know, Akoya pearls have to be color treated to achieve the perfect rose color. It’s not a huge drawback, but is something to be aware of, and the expense of buying Akoya and South Sea pearls makes it important to be informed at every step of the buying process.

Overall pink is a wonderful color for nearly any occasion. While it doesn’t have the formality and classic appeal of white, pink pearl jewelry holds a more feminine, casual appeal. Peach flatters nearly any skin tone, though if you don’t find it works for you, the cooler tones of lavender may be a better fit. Finally, buying white pearls with rose overtones is another option that makes these pearls suitable for weddings or any other occasion in which you want your beauty to shine without wearing the same pearl necklace as anyone else.

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Pearl Bracelets

June 18, 2010 by

Pearls are elegant, delicate, and above all, feminine, making  pearl bracelets a great choice anytime you want to draw attention to your wrists. These bracelets come in many different, equally beautiful forms from cuffs to multi-strand bracelets to a bracelet version of the ever-popular tin cup pearl necklace. Furthermore, you can find them in any color under the sun.

Before you buy a bracelet, either as a gift for yourself or someone you love, think about the types of situations you might encounter. The most formal type of bracelet consists of a single strand with the classic Akoya pearls we know and love. However, there are many other types available as well. Double and triple strand bracelets look great when you want a piece of jewelry that’s a little less delicate. You can also find cuff bracelets that are decorated with pearls – these are a great option too! You might also consider “woven” bracelets which have many strands intertwined. Lastly, the most delicate pearl bracelet is the “tin cup.” This is a bracelet version of the popular necklace, consisting of pearls spaced along a fine chain or strand of silken thread at regular intervals. The result is strikingly feminine – one reason the trend has endured.

The most inexpensive type of pearl bracelets available are freshwater. While these are more casual than Akoya, they are much more affordable and often of equal quality. Freshadama pearls are nearly indistinguishable from Akoya and because they are all nacre (due to the cultivation process) they tend to be more durable. Freshwater pearls also come in a wide variety of colors from natural (pink, lavender, various pastels, and white), to dyed. What could be more feminine than a pink pearl bracelet, after all?

Akoya pearls are generally top of the line and are what everyone thinks of when they think of pearls – white, perfectly round, and with mirror-like luster. They do have some disadvantages, however. Because Akoya pearls are cultured using a beaded nucleus, they tend to have a thinner layer of nacre, which can lead to some wear and tear down the road. Also, even though the term Japanese Akoya pearls used to be an industry standard, today it is no longer considered valid due to the increase in Chinese production of Akoya pearls. One way to distinguish the two is the size – smaller Akoyas are generally Chinese, and sizes greater than 7-8mm are generally from Japan.

The most exotic pearl bracelets are made of Tahitian or South Sea pearls. Watch out though – their uniqueness and high quality may also come with a steep price tag. Tahitians are naturally dark, with various types of metallic overtone and body color combinations. Peacock, black, pistachio, aubergine, and chocolate are all popular colors that guarantee that anyone with a Tahitian pearl bracelet will stand out in a crowd. South Sea pearls are best known for their rich gold, but again, are very rare and expensive.

Pearls add an aura of mystery, elegance, and class to their wearer. Not only that, but a pearl bracelet is extremely feminine. Consider adding one to your jewelry collection – I’m sure you won’t regret it!

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I’ve talked about brown pearls before, but in all honesty it’s not just any type of brown that’s garnering publicity lately. So-called “chocolate” Tahitian pearls are a very specific, rare, type of pearl that has come into vogue over the last decade. I thought I’d give you a little more information about these pearls – what to look for, where the color comes from, and who sells them.

Sometime around the year 2000, Ballerina Pearl in New York began to sell chocolate pearls created through a unique treatment process. Truly uniform brown isn’t a natural color – in fact, most brown Tahitians have red or purple overtones – but Ballerina Pearl created this color through a combination of bleach and heat. It is a proprietary process that they maintain preserves the integrity of the pearl without using dye. Basically, the color is stripped to reveal brown underneath. These pearls are in short supply and demand was high, so, naturally, knock-offs began to enter the market in droves. If you want true chocolate pearls watch out – the knock offs are usually dyed using a silver nitrate process in order to mimic the real thing.

It’s not so much dyed freshwater pearls that has the pearl industry upset. Rather, they object to dyeing Tahitians because they are considered a high integrity pearl rather than one that is mass-produced. Jewelers also worry that retailers will price gouge customers without disclosing the true nature of the pearls they carry. If you just want a beautiful chocolate color – stick to freshwater pearls. Irradiating freshwater pearls is easy to do without sacrificing anything.  Dyed chocolate Tahitians lose some of their beautiful luster, whereas the bleached kind are usually extremely high quality.

Now, after the mini-rant/explanation….you’re probably wondering why anyone would choose brown in the first place. It’s not a color that tops many women’s list of favorites, after all. That’s a shame, I think. Brown is a color that suits and flatters many different skin tones and, because it’s a neutral color, can be paired with anything. Fall, with its deep, rich, colors, almost demands that women wear brown! Chocolate pearl necklaces may be just what you’re looking for to achieve that dramatic fall look.

Chocolate freshwater pearls can be found just about anywhere, but where should you go for Tahitians? As far as I know, Ballerina Pearl Co. was the first company to use a bleaching process rather than dye, but I’ve heard that Shanghai Gems may use a similar process. It seems that Ballerina sells most of their pearls to Emiko Pearls in Bellevue, Washington. From there, they are sold to designer Erica Courtney (who provides many celebrities with their red carpet jewelry) and jeweler Paul Johnson in Houston, Texas. As you can see, getting real chocolate pearls is difficult and most likely expensive. That’s why there’s so many dyed pearls on the market.

In short, chocolate pearls are created through a unique bleaching process because a true, uniform brown doesn’t occur in nature. They are rare because there are few companies that distribute them, though if you’re okay with dye, you will have a much easier time buying some of your own. I really don’t have anything against dye, personally, but I do dislike it when retailers aren’t completely honest about their merchandise. As always, buyer beware.

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If you’ve read any of my posts, then you know that I love pearls, and especially pearl necklaces. Up to this point though, I haven’t talked about one of the most common ways to get a pearl necklace, and that is to buy a pearl jewelry set. In case you’re wondering what a pearl set is (if you already know then skip this), I’ll explain: a pearl set quite simply consists of a necklace, earrings, and sometimes a bracelet, all made of pearls. You can find any combination of those on the market in 2 or 3 piece sets. One of the benefits of buying a pearl set is that you can easily find pearls that match as well as introduce some versatility to your wardrobe.

A pearl jewelry set is meant to be classic and chic (and are often worn by brides), so you’ll most often find one available  in white. Akoya pearls fit the bill perfectly because they are known for their creamy white color, high luster, and consistently high quality. Freshwater pearls will also work well – the key is to know what you’re looking for, set a budget, then find the best available option in your price range.

Even if you’re not looking for white pearls, you have plenty of options. Freshwater pearls can easily be found in any color under the sun, provided you’re okay with dyed pearls. Some colors, such as red, don’t exist in nature so freshwater will be your best bet. If you’re looking for gold or silver, South Sea pearls are the way to go, while Tahitian pearls are best known for black and peacock.

As I said earlier, most sets consist of a necklace and earrings; however, a bracelet is still a great option either instead of, or in addition to, your earrings. You also might consider looking into a convertible pearl necklace. These are often pearl ropes (or opera length) with multiple clasps so that you can either wear them as they are – very long necklaces – or as a shorter necklace with a matching bracelet. Keep in mind that, though very versatile, ropes are generally a little more expensive.

Pearl sets are a staple item that will see through many seasons of wear. They can be worn to nearly any occasion and are even worn by brides on their wedding day. Just read up on quality standards, pick a color, decide on the type of pearls you want, and you’ll be set. Happy hunting!

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The Exotic Black Pearl

June 11, 2010 by

Though pearls in general are a timeless classic, switching things up every now and then can be a fun way to add some spice to your jewelry collection. Changing the color from white to black is one easy way to do this – the exotic flair of black pearls could be just what you need. Though these pearls have become more popular over time, they are still rare enough that you’ll never be lost in the crowd.

Before the pearl industry developed reliable cultivation methods, black pearls were incredibly rare, but since white was in high demand, they were thought to be worthless. The situation is completely different today! Of course, white pearls are still the most common, but the Tahitian pearl industry thrives in large part due to the popularity of their exotically colored pearls. These are rarely a flat black, but often have other overtones and may even shimmer with a rainbow of colors. You’ll definitely be enchanted. The best part is that these pearls are not only unique but also very versatile, as black in general can look wonderful with any outfit!

When it comes to black, there are a couple of options available to you. Naturally black pearls only come from the pinctada margaritifera or black-lipped pearl oyster, found in the South Pacific. This means that you’ll want to look for Tahitian pearls. The other option is to buy some dyed freshwater pearls – these are cheaper, but don’t have the beautiful overtones that Tahitian pearls are best known for.  You also have to be careful; many pearls are dyed because they aren’t high enough quality to stand on their own. Not all, but enough to be wary – look for pearls that have great surface quality, since this will be visible even through the dye.

Buying a black pearl necklace can be a little pricey, especially if you choose Tahitians. However, these pearls look great no matter what form they come in. A single pearl necklace or tin cup necklace can save you money because there are less pearls used. You might also take a look at black pearl earrings – drop pearls can (sometimes) be less expensive, and these earrings make amazing accents for any occasion. Any type of baroque pearl will also look great!

If your goal is to stand out in a crowd and look great no matter which outfit you wear, black pearls are definitely worth considering. Whether Tahitian or dyed freshwater, you’ll find they soon become an essential part of your wardrobe!

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If you want to wear something a little different from the usual classic pearl strands, have you ever thought about a tin cup or floating pearl necklace? The design features pearls spaced at regular intervals along a fine pearl chain or silk thread. These necklaces actually date back to 1996, when designer Wendy Brigode created a unique and stylish design for Renee Russo. The actress wore this necklace in the movie “Tin Cup,” which is why many people still refer to this design as a “tin cup necklace.”

Other types of pearl necklaces can be overwhelming for teens, girls, and women with petite frames. The floating pearl necklace features a more unique and delicate design than other types of pearl necklaces – strands of pearls can overwhelm and seem a little too formal, while single pearl necklaces blend in a little too much if worn with the wrong outfit. A floating pearl necklace, in contrast, enhances a woman’s femininity, adds grace and class, and can be worn at any age.

You should consider the statement you want to make before deciding which type of necklace to wear. A floating pearl necklace does not make the boldest statement; it is better to wear this type of necklace when you want to appear more feminine, but not when you want to seem aggressive. For example, a business meeting might not be the best place for this necklace. On the other hand, a first date, hanging out with friends, or dressing up for a party are all great occasions to wear a tin cup necklace.

The floating pearl necklace is a delicate design that works well for multiple occasions. It is one of the more versatile designs and is less expensive than a traditional necklace. If you don’t mind stringing the pearls yourself, these necklaces are also pretty easy to make. Simply buy the pearls in bulk and follow one of the many online tutorials. If you are just getting started, try practicing with simulated pearls or beads first.

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If you’ve ever wanted a pearl necklace but didn’t care for the look of classic round pearls, you might want to take a look at baroque pearls instead. ‘Baroque’ in this case simply means that the shape is irregular and asymmetrical. I’ve talked about other shapes before, including coin, keshi, and drop pearls but did you know that those could also be considered baroque? It all depends on how symmetrical they are! Even stick pearls (such as those made famous by Lake Biwa pearl farms) might fall under the baroque category.

Baroque pearls have all the same qualities as their more sought after cousins, and can be very high quality aside from their shape. This means you could get the high luster, good surface quality, and lovely orient (especially in keshis) that you’re looking for, but because these pearls are less desirable, you might end up paying a good deal less for them. They let you inject a little more flair into your jewelry choices and lend themselves well to many types of designs.

Most baroque pearls are freshwater cultured pearls – these, unlike saltwater pearls, are cultivated with a piece of mantle tissue as a nucleus instead of a bead. This cultivation process is less likely to produce perfectly round pearls, but fortunately for you (if you like pearls with a little more character) baroque pearls are easy to come by. Saltwater baroque pearls exist too, but they’re not quite as common. Keshi pearls are a byproduct of the cultivation process and are often either discarded or corrected before the pearl has fully formed. That being said, other types of baroque pearls are available in the Akoya, South Sea, or Tahitian varieties. I’ve heard that as much as forty percent of the Tahitian pearl harvest is baroque!

Drop pearls, which can also be considered baroque, are often used in earrings and single pearl necklaces. Coin pearl necklaces are quite popular with young women because they add a more feminine touch. Finally, keshi pearls can be used as accents or combined to make roses or even more fanciful shapes. Keshis also tend to have absolutely incredible orient so I’m definitely a fan!

Overall, irregularly shaped baroque pearls have a lot of character and their variety means you’ll be sure to find something you like. Not to mention, you could save some money! Thinking outside of the box can have its rewards now and then.

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