If you don’t know much about pearls, buying your first pearl necklace can be a confusing process. Guys, there’s a lot of hype and false advertising out there so you have to be careful! The best way to approach this is to first of all, have a clear idea of what you want as well as a working knowledge of pearls so that your vision will become a reality. With that in mind, I’ll walk you through what you need to know to buy the right necklace for you or your loved one, from deciding what style you like to choosing the right retailer. Let’s get started.

Pick A Necklace Style

The first thing you need to think about is who the necklace is for. I know this may seem pretty obvious but who the recipient is will determine what styles or colors you should go for. You already know her (or him – guys can wear pearls too – but for now I’m just going to say her to make it easier) so take a moment to think about her preferences. Of course, if you’re buying for yourself then you already know!

The next step is to eliminate some of your options to make things simpler while keeping yourself or your loved one in mind. Think about age, first of all. There are some types of necklaces that may not be age-appropriate for younger girls or young women. These include pearl ropes, opera length necklaces, and really, anything with very large pearls (See: Pearl Necklace Lengths for more on pearl necklace naming conventions). Now, not everyone feels this way so don’t talk yourself out of one of these if that’s what you think she’ll like – but definitely keep in mind that, typically, those are all necklaces worn by older women. Other than that – is her style classic, or cutting edge? Some women may find the classic pearl strands a little boring and/or too traditional.

If you’ve eliminated some options, then now is the time to pick a specific style (or styles) that you want to focus on. I’ll present some of the less common options as well so that you can decide! Classic pearl strands are the easiest to find in many different colors and will be wearable in nearly any situation. Single pearl necklaces resemble a pendant and are  usually just a single pearl on a chain. These are modern and a great choice for young women or women with a more delicate bone structure because they won’t be overwhelmed. This type of necklace can also be much more affordable.

Floating pearl necklaces (also known as a tin cup, station, or illusion necklaces) consist of pearls spaced evenly along a very fine chain or silk thread, giving the illusion that they are “floating” on your skin. They were first seen in the movie “Tin Cup” (hence the name tin cup necklace) but have endured as a long-lasting fashion trend. I think these are the most delicate and feminine necklaces of all! They are very easy to find in a variety of colors but many “floating pearl necklaces” actually use faux pearls. Just read the description carefully before you buy!

Pick Your Pearls

Hopefully you know have a fairly clear idea what you’re looking for. Next you need to choose the type and color of pearls you’d like. The main types of pearls are Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea, and freshwater, each with a different price and color range. Here’s a crash course:

Akoyas are a very solid choice if you’re looking for a classic white pearl necklace. They are high quality and generally available in white or cream.

Tahitian pearls are as opposite as you can get – if you want black pearls, Tahitian is definitely the way to go. Look for high orient and a metallic sheen – these pearls are rarely a flat black and are known for their many vibrant colors.

South Sea pearls are generally gold or silver – colors that are rare in other types – and are larger than average.

Freshwater pearls are probably the most widely available now that Chinese pearl culturing techniques have advanced. Some advantages of freshwater pearls are their affordablility, durability (due to high nacre content) and color choice. Freshwaters take dye/radiation very easily so you’ll be able to find any color you like.

Scams, Myths, and What to Look For In Your Pearls

Now if you’re ready to buy, here’s what you need to look for. There is no universal pearl grading system but most retailers, whether online or brick and mortar, use a scale running from A to AAA+, with AAA+ being the highest quality. The more rarely used Tahitian scale runs from A-D with A being the best. Any retailer that claims to have AAAA pearls is generally trying to inflate their prices. Take a very very careful look at the description so you know what you’re getting.

Any legitimate retailer should include a description that mentions the luster (shine/reflective qualities of the pearl or pearls), overall quality (whether by letter grade or surface quality i.e. 96% blemish free),  size, shape (and whether or not there are any irregularities), and certifications if those apply. Hanadamas should always include a certificate from the Japanese Pearl Institute. If you are ever unsure about a pearl, many retailers will let you see additional photos  – anyway, it never hurts to ask! Of course, if you are in a brick and mortar store you’ll be able to see the pearl necklace for yourself.

As with any major purchase, knowing the basics will sometimes save you from making a mistake. There are many misleading claims out there and any of these should be a definite red flag. Here we go with some of the top myths:

• Baby South Sea pearls are generally not South Sea at all, but freshwater pearls.
• South Sea Tahitians don’t exist. Pearls are either Tahitian or South Sea.
• Black South Sea pearls are actually Tahitians, generally.
• AAAA grading – this should be a warning to look closer.
• Black Freshwater pearls are always dyed.
• Brown Tahitian pearls are almost always dyed.
• There is nothing better than Hanadama. Anyone who says they have an Akoya pearl superior to Hanadama doesn’t know their stuff – if it were really that good it would have gone through the certification process.
• Japanese Akoya pearls – the name is somewhat of a misnomer these days. Though once it was an industry standard term, the advent of Chinese Akoya pearls as well as the Japanese practice of importing and relabeling their competition, has made this somewhat obsolete.

As you can see…buyer beware! There are, however, many reputable dealers both online and off. The following sites have received good reviews and are generally considered a safe place to buy:

Pearls of Joy
Pearl Paradise
The Pearl Outlet

After you purchase your necklace be sure to take care of it so that it lasts a lifetime. Though pearls are more delicate than other gems, with a little careful handling they can last a very long time. Be sure to keep them away from open heat, direct sun, and body acids, store them away from other jewelry so they don’t get scratched, and avoid using harsh cleaners on them or while wearing them. Your new pearls will eventually need to be restrung however.  (For more information please see: Caring for Your Pearl Necklace)

If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! Hopefully this crash course in pearl buying has made your search a little easier. Just remember to carefully think of what you would like to buy; choose the right pearls; read descriptions carefully; look for red flags; and take care of your necklace once you (or your loved one for that matter) receives it. Good luck and happy hunting!

Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with the above merchants in any way – they are merely sites I have seen mentioned around the web with a good reputation. Please exercise caution even with the most reputable of dealers and buy at your own risk!